How to check if your Mac or iOS device is still covered under warranty or is protected by AppleCare


How to check if your Mac or iOS device is still covered under warranty or is protected by AppleCare

If you have a problem with your Mac, iPhone or iPad that needs examination by the Genius Bar or another tech support member, it’s usually handy to check if the hardware is still covered by warranties or one of the AppleCare programs, or if you can expect a heftier repair bill. AppleInsider details how to find out if you are still covered before you contact Apple’s support teams.




Accidents and computer issues happen to almost everyone, and while many are minor and can be easily dealt with via light use of Google and a small amount of effort, sometimes the problem is significant enough to require professional assistance. In the case of physical issues, like an iPhone display cracking or a key flying off a MacBook’s keyboard, this will usually result in a visit to an Apple Store or one of the Apple Authorized Service Providers for a repair.

Depending on the issue, this could potentially cost a lot of money, unless it is something covered under the standard limited warranty or the various AppleCare protection plans. In these cases, the cost of repair could be reduced, but only if the hardware is still within its coverage period, or if you paid for the extra protection, if it is still protected under AppleCare.

Before you make contact, it is usually a good idea to check the status of the problematic device, as finding out it is covered could ease your concerns of receiving a hefty repair bill.

Registered Devices



If you have registered your devices to your Apple ID, there are two easy ways to find out the status of all of your hardware via your account.

On a working iOS device logged into your Apple ID, open the Apple Support app, which appears in iOS as a blue square icon with a white Apple logo in one corner. Within the app, tap Account, followed by Check Coverage.



This will bring up a list of devices registered to the account. Tap the item you want to check, and the app will advise of its coverage status.



This can also be checked in the browser, by accessing the My Support page. Click Sign In to My Support, enter your Apple ID credentials, then if needed, complete the two-factor authentication procedure.



The My Support page will bring up a list of all devices currently signed into that account, along with the serial numbers. Click the device in question to bring up the coverage status for the device, and offers links for support.



Unconnected Hardware



In the event the device in question isn’t connected to your Apple ID, such as one used by a family member, the status can still be checked online via the serial number.

Using the Check Coverage website, enter the serial number in the top text entry box followed by the captcha security code, then click Continue.



The next page will identify the device registered to the serial number, and advise on the support status for the device.

Serial Numbers



There are a number of ways to find the serial number for a device, with Apple including a number of different ways to find it out.

For iOS devices, it can be located in the Settings app, under General then About. The serial number is roughly three-quarters of the way down the page.



Alternately, it is also printed on the back of the device. Look under the name section where the regulatory marks are located, and it can be seen in very small print, as well as the model number.



Mac users able to access macOS can find it by clicking the Apple icon in the menu bar and selecting About This Mac. The serial number will be detailed below other general specifications for the Mac, which may also be handy to record.



Again, it is also possible to find the serial number physically printed on the Mac hardware, alongside the regulatory information and the device name. In the majority of cases, it will be printed on the base of the Mac, though some older models can have this information printed on the back instead.

For the Apple Watch, the data can be found in the Apple Watch iOS app, by selecting the My Watch tab, then General, then About. On the Apple Watch itself, open Settings, select General, then About.

Lastly, you can also find the serial number on the back of the Apple Watch itself.

Support Status



The status pages will provide information depending on whether or not they apply to the device.



First, the Valid Purchase Date is a confirmation that it was bought and Apple knows when. This date dictates whether or not certain options are available.

The next section will advise of whether or not telephone technical support is still available for the item. Regardless of whether or not it is active, there will be links explaining how to contact Apple for support.

The third section, Repairs and Service Coverage, will explain if the hardware is covered by Apple’s limited warranty or the AppleCare Protection Plan, and links to arrange a repair. In the event both options are expired, the section will also advise your country’s consumer protection laws may still be of some assistance, and to speak to an advisor to see if they apply to the device’s current predicament.

If AppleCare was bought for the device, a fourth option will show if it is still active or has expired. 

How to download your Instagram data with the Data Download tool


How to download your Instagram data with the Data Download tool

Wary of social media following the Cambridge Analytica scandal and considering leaving Instagram for good? Here’s how to use the site’s Data Download tool to take your content with you when you go.

grab your stuff and go!

Today, TechCrunch announced that Instagram has finally launched its own version of Facebook’s “Download Your Information” feature after being publicly called out in the wake of the Cambridge Analytica privacy scandal. Referred to simply as Data Download, the tool allows users to download all their photos, videos, archived Stories, profile info, comments, and non-ephemeral messages before they delete their account (or, if they like, as an account backup).

If you’re concerned about your privacy and are looking to delete your Instagram account, here’s how to make sure you get all the precious memories you’ve collected over the years before you log off for good.

  1. Head to your Instagram profile in your favorite web browser.
  2. Click on the little gear icon at the top right of your profile to open the Settings menu.
  3. Select Privacy and Security.

  4. Scroll down until you see Data Download. Click on Request Download.

  5. Enter the email address associated with your Instagram account, then click Next.

  6. Enter your Instagram password. Then click Request Download.

  7. Voilà! Instagram will begin creating a file of your data that they will then email to you. Note that this could take up to two days depending on how much you’ve shared on your account.

Though there isn’t a way for everyone to use the Data Download tool on mobile yet, an Instagram spokesperson confirmed to TechCrunch that access via iOS and Android is in the process of rolling out.

Questions?

Did you have any trouble downloading your Instagram data? Give us a shout in the comments and we’ll do our best to help you out.

Privacy and security A 15-year-old in Ontario traded in her broken iPhone for $11. Once refurbished and resold, a creepy man in Dubai had access to all of her data. Here’s how to avoid that ever happening to you.

How to speed up Apple Watch software updates dramatically


How to speed up Apple Watch software updates dramatically

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Downloading watchOS software to your Apple Watch is a tremendously slow process.

It can take anywhere between half an hour to an hour or more to send a watchOS software update to your wrist. Because it’s such a sluggish experience, I try to update my watch only when I’m positive I won’t be using it for a few hours, like right before I’m about to hit the bed.

The exact amount of time needed to send the installer to your wrist depends on the size of the watchOS software update you’re installing, the model of your Apple Watch (newer models utilize better processors that handle common operations faster), network interference and the many factors that influence wireless data transfer.

TUTORIAL: How to update your Apple Watch software

Wouldn’t it be great if there were a way to dramatically speed up the utterly slow process of sending the watchOS installer files to your Apple Watch?

About speeding up Apple Watch updates

I’ll let you in on a secret: sliding the Bluetooth toggle to the OFF position in Settings → Bluetooth on your iPhone will speed up watchOS software updates dramatically.

But why does turning Bluetooth off accelerate the update process?

Because Apple Watch defaults to prioritizing Bluetooth over Wi-Fi whenever possible in order to conserve as much power as possible. While Bluetooth does require less power than Wi-Fi, the protocol is significantly slower in terms of data transfer than most Wi-Fi networking standards.

Disabling Bluetooth on your paired iPhone at the right time will force your Apple Watch to connect to your iPhone via the faster Wi-Fi protocol.

Unlike other Apple devices, your Apple Watch does not download watchOS updates itself.

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Updating your watch happens through the companion Watch app on your paired iPhone.

Your phone downloads the latest watchOS update and sends the installer wirelessly to your wrist. Sending that much data over Bluetooth is insane—watchOS updates typically weigh in anywhere between a few hundred megabytes to more than a gigabyte.

Making the weakest link—sending the installer to your watch—faster by temporarily disabling Bluetooth shaves off a significant amount of time from the update process.

However, you must shut down Bluetooth in a specific moment during the update process.

How to speed up Apple Watch updates

As I said, Apple Watch software updates are handled by the Watch app on your paired iPhone. Among other things, it automatically retrieves the latest watchOS software from Apple’s servers as soon as it becomes available to download.

The Watch app then sends the downloaded installer file to your wrist-worn device over the air. The watch takes it from there, unpacking the installer and applying the update.

1) Make sure that your Apple Watch is on its charger, is at least 50% charged and is within a few inches of your paired iPhone. Double check that Wi-Fi and Bluetooth are enabled on both your phone and watch.

2) Open the Watch app on your paired iPhone.

3) Tap the My Watch tab.

4) Tap General.

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5) Tap Software Update.

TIP: If your iPhone has already downloaded the latest watchOS update in the background, you’ll see a red badge on the Watch app’s icon on your Home screen and within the app.

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6) If there’s a new watchOS update available, you’ll see its version number and release notes on the next screen. To continue the update process, tap Download and Install.

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If asked for your iPhone passcode or Apple Watch passcode, enter it.

7) As the Watch app prepares to send the downloaded watchOS installer to your watch, you’ll see a message “Estimated time remaining” at the top.

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Seeing a rough estimate of the time remaining (for example, “About 9 minutes remaining”) means the app is sending the installer to the watch over Bluetooth.

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Don’t disable Bluetooth until the time remaining estimate appears

8) Now open the Settings app on your iPhone.

9) Choose Bluetooth from the list.

10) Slide the switch labeled Bluetooth to the OFF position.

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TIP: Avoid disabling Bluetooth through Control Center because that won’t do the trick due to the major changes to how these toggles work in iOS 11.

11) Bluetooth is now fully disabled on your iPhone.

Data transfers and special Continuity features such as AirDrop and Apple Watch connectivity will no longer work. This isn’t a problem: Apple Watch supports certain features over Wi-Fi connections, even when Bluetooth is disabled.

Switch to the Watch app and navigate to the My Watch → General → Software Update screen.

12) A prompt pops up, advising you reconnect to your watch.

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Tap Cancel to continue.

13) Seeing that Bluetooth is unavailable, the Watch app falls back to your home Wi-Fi network as long as both your watch and phone have Wi-Fi enabled in Settings and are connected to the same local network.

The estimated time remaining should drop significantly as a direct result of using the much faster Wi-Fi protocol than the slow, unreliable Bluetooth networking. Apple enforces Bluetooth on the watch because Wi-Fi radios consume more power.

When a message saying “Preparing…” appears at the top of the screen, the watchOS installer has been successfully sent to your watch. Apple Watch is now unpacking the installer.

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You may also see a message saying ”Verifying…”

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This is to indicate that the Watch app is verifying the cryptographic signature of the downloaded software in order to ensure that the watchOS update is a legitimate piece of software that has not been tampered with.

With the watchOS archive unpacked on your watch, relaunch the Settings app and re-enable Bluetooth, then return to watchOS installer screen in the Watch app.

14) Tap Install in the Watch app.

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If asked for your iPhone passcode or Apple Watch passcode, enter it.

15) Wait for the progress wheel to appear on your watch. Your iPhone is no longer needed for the rest of the watchOS update process so it’s now safe to quit the Watch app.

Keep in mind that it could take from several minutes to an hour for the update to install onto the watch, depending on your exact Apple Watch model, the update size and more.

Check out our hands-on video walkthrough of the whole process.



Subscribe to iDownloadBlog on YouTube

I know shutting down Bluetooth feels like a cheap trick.

In fact, many folks know about the correlation between Bluetooth throughput and the watchOS update speed. But, trust me: once you try this simple trick you’ll never install Apple Watch software updates over Bluetooth again—and you can quote me on that.

Need help? Ask iDB!

If you like this how-to, pass it along to your support folks and leave a comment below.

Got stuck? Not sure how to do certain things on your Apple device? Let us know via help@iDownloadBlog.com and a future tutorial might provide a solution.

Submit your how-to suggestions via tips@iDownloadBlog.com.

How to Write Image Files to SD Card with dd from Command Line of Mac or Linux


How to Write Image Files to SD Card with dd from Command Line of Mac or Linux

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Need to write an image file to an SD card? The command line ‘dd’ tool can do that for you, writing a disk image .img file to an SD card with minimal effort. A nice perk to using ‘dd’ for writing image files to an SD card is that it works for Mac OS as well as linux right out of the box, since it comes preinstalled there are no additional downloads or third party apps necessary to burn an image this way.


Using dd from the command line to write an image to an SD card is considered advanced, so this is best for users who are comfortable with the command line. For example, you might use this for writing a boot image for a RaspberryPi or some other quick-boot linux setup. A simpler option for most users is to use a third party app like Etcher to write an image to an SD card. Nonetheless, dd works just fine as long as you have an understanding of the command line. Using dd this way to write an SD card image is similar to how you’d use dd to burn an ISO to a USB drive or another disk image, except of course the file format is different and so is the target.

How to Write Image .img to SD Card via Command Line with dd

To get started, launch Terminal app from the /Applications/Utilities/ folder. Have your .img file to write somewhere easily found as well, we’re assuming here that it will be in your current working directory.

You must have the disk identifier for the target SD card you wish to write the img file to, thus we’ll first run diskutil list:

diskutil list

Locate the SD card in the diskutil list output and make note of the rdiskNUMBER disk identifier associated with the SD card. You will be using that as the SD card target for writing, as well as the file name of the disk image to write to the target SD card.

Use the following command syntax to write the .img image file to the SD card:

sudo dd if=NameOfImageToWrite.img of=/dev/rdiskNUMBER bs=1m

Replacing NameOfImageToWrite.img to image and path, and rdiskNUMBER with the target SD card disk identifier as found through ‘diskutil list’ output.

Hit return and enter the admin password to start the writing process, it may take a while to complete depending on the size of the image file and the speed of the SD card.

For example, if your disk image name is “RaspberryPiCustom.img” and the disk identifier is “/dev/rdisk4” then the command would look as follows:

sudo dd if=RaspberryPiCustom.img of=/dev/rdisk4 bs=1m

This should be fairly simple and straight forward to users who are already familiar with the command line.

Straying away from SD cards for a moment, another option which may work for some users is to burn disc images directly from the Mac Finder in modern Mac OS releases, which works fine if you have a CDRW or DVD-RW and are working with common disk image file formats too. Older Mac OS X release can use Disk Utility to burn ISO and other images as well, but modern versions of Disk Utility have lost that capability. Fortunately, the dd tool can burn ISO images from the command line as well as write an image to a USB drive.

Do you know of another approach to writing image .img files to an SD card via the command line or otherwise? Share your tips or comments below!

Related

How to Burn an ISO Image from Command Line of Mac OS X

The most straight forward way to burn an ISO from a Mac is using Disk Utility, but you can also burn ISO’s and disk images directly from the command line with the help of a tool called ‘dd’. This works for OS X and Linux, but we’re going to be…

41.000 danskere har fået lænset Facebook-oplysninger: Med dette værktøj kan du se, om du eller dine venner er ramt


41.000 danskere har fået lænset Facebook-oplysninger: Med dette værktøj kan du se, om du eller dine venner er ramt

Facebook rydder op i sit rod. Nu kan brugerne selv undersøge hvorvidt de er berørt af dataskandalen.

En god portion af Facebooks brugere har i mandags fået besked fra selskabet om, at deres personlige data kan være blevet misbrugt til politiske formål af det udskældte analyseinstitut Cambridge Analytica.

Læs også: I dag får du besked, hvis du er ramt af Facebook-læk

Blandt det sociale medies 2,2 milliarder brugere, mistænkes det at op mod 87 millioner er ramt at informationslækket.

Herhjemme har Ritzau tidligere oplyst, at 41.820 danske Facebook-konti kan have indgået i Cambridge Analyticas storstilede dataindsamling.

Vil du vide, hvorvidt din – eller dine venners – Facebook-konto, er berørt af lækket, stiller Facebook nu et værktøj til rådighed, som ud fra din historik og kontaktliste kan vurdere, hvorvidt dine data er blevet kompromitterede.

Det skriver netmediet Windows Central.

Er du berørt?
Facebook-værktøjet kan tilgås fra selskabets Help Center ved hjælp af dette link.

Ud fra din profil vil selskabet vurdere omfanget af datalækagen. Er du eller dine kontakter berørt, vil der få en rapport over hvilken type oplysninger, der er kompromitterede.

Den verserende skandale trækker rødder tilbage til 2014, hvor quizz-applikationen ’This Is Your Digital Life’ høstede oplysninger om deltagerne samt deres kontakter.

Ifølge Facebooks besked til de ramte brugere, rummer lækagen i værste tilfælde oplysninger om nyhedsfeed, tidslinje, opslag samt beskeder delt igennem den sociale platform.

Facebook-værktøjet vurderer kun, hvorvidt datalæk stammer fra den omstridte app. Facebook indførte først opstramninger i mediets datapolitik i løbet af 2015.                   

How to create custom ringtones on your iPhone with GarageBand for iOS


How to create custom ringtones on your iPhone with GarageBand for iOS

While personalized ringtones can be created on the Mac version of GarageBand and exported to the iPhone, producing a custom tone can also be done from within iOS. AppleInsider shows how to turn GarageBand recordings into a ringtone using an iPhone or iPad, without using a Mac.




Creating a ringtone from the iOS device itself is easier in some respects compared to doing the same thing via GarageBand for Mac. While the music production or recording creation element is slightly different, due to it being iOS-based instead of macOS along with different recording options, the overall process is quite similar to the Mac version.

The main difference is exporting the ringtone and implementing it on the iPhone or iPad. Where the Mac requires users to find the file and import it into iTunes to apply it to their devices, exporting as a ringtone is more direct when performing the procedure on the smartphone or tablet itself.

Creating the Tone



Open GarageBand. If you have an existing project available, skip down to the Sharing the Tone section below.

Start a new project by tapping the plus symbol in the top-right corner.



While this guide isn’t going to delve into GarageBand production, it is suggested to the reader to experiment with all of the options available, depending on what they want their ringtone to sound like by the end.

For example, you could use the virtual session drummers to create a basic beat, then lay down extra tracks using the built-in virtual instruments. This can also be used to record singing using the built-in microphone or the playing of real instruments.



A quick way to create a track is to go into the Live Loops section, selecting one of the example sample grids, and then record a session using the included samples.



Once created, tap My Songs in the top left to save the project. Give the new project a long press and select Rename, give the song a title, and tap Done.



Sharing the Tone



Long-press the new track or the existing project, and select the pop-up Share option. The new panel will offer three options, to export as a song, a ringtone, or as a project. Select Ringtone.



If you wish to use a different name for the ringtone instead of the song title, change the name by tapping it, otherwise just tap Export. This will bring up an extra notification advising it was successful, and while OK will end the process, Use sound as… will allow for it to be set as a ringtone straight away.



Selecting Use sound as… will bring up three more options, namely to set it as the Standard Ringtone, Standard Text Tone, or to Assign to a contact. Selecting either of the first two will change the default assigned tone to the new one, and will end the process.



If you opt for Assign to contact, the full list of contacts stored on the iPhone or iPad will be shown onscreen. Scroll through and select the contact you want to use. Lastly, select between Assign as Text Tone and Assign as Ringtone to complete the procedure.



Regardless of whether the tone is assigned or not, it will be immediately available to use in the main tone settings as an extra tone option.

To make it the default tone after exporting, go to the Settings app followed by Sounds then Ringtone. The custom apps will be at the top of the list, and can be tapped to set as the default tone.



Deleting the Tone



Custom ringtones created in GarageBand iOS and exported to the same device are not accessible within iTunes on a Mac, for unknown reasons. It is possible to remove the tones, but from within GarageBand itself.

Long-press any project and select the Share option, followed by Ringtone. On the screen for entering a new name, select Your Ringtones below the textbox.



This will list all custom-made ringtones created on the iOS device. Tap Edit to bring up the deletion options, tap the red circle next to the tone you wish to remove, then the new Delete button to confirm its removal.



Once finished, click Done, and exit the export menus.

Encore



Just like the Mac version, GarageBand for iOS ringtones are limited to only 40 seconds in length as a maximum. Rather than warn of this during the export, GarageBand automatically clips the tone to the first 40 seconds, eliminating the rest of the track.

If you have a composition and want to use only part of the song from the middle or the end, for example, duplicate the project on the Recent Projects page by a long-press followed by Duplicate. Enter this duplicated project and trim the track down to 40 seconds or less, before sharing again.

Also, it is advised that readers do not import music tracks they do not have permission or the rights to use for their own ringtones, for copyright-related legal reasons. If you want to use copyrighted music, a sound effect, or a fictional character’s catchphrase, it is recommended to look at the tones available in the iTunes store. 

How to Change the Key Frame Photo of Live Photos on iPhone and iPad


How to Change the Key Frame Photo of Live Photos on iPhone and iPad

How to set Key Photo of Live Photos on iPhone and iPadcdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/live-photos-ios-300×141.jpg 300w” sizes=”(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px” style=”max-width: 100%; margin: 0.5em auto; display: block;” apple-inline=”yes” id=”8C742BB0-0C6E-4969-9548-E16A5EA00221″ src=”https://o1sen.dk/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/live-photos-ios.jpeg” class=””>

Live Photos are the fun animated images captured by modern iPhone and iPad cameras. Essentially each Live Photo is a still image attached to a short movie clip, and much like movie clips there is a key image that can be set to represent the picture as a thumbnail. Changing that key photo can be desirable if the Live Photo thumbnail preview doesn’t really capture the image well, and you can instead scrub around in the Live Photo for a thumbnail that better represents the image.

This tutorial will show you how to change and set a Live Photo key frame photo in iOS, which will change both the thumbnail of the Live Photo as well as the picture you see when you browse to the Live Photo in the Photos app on iPhone and iPad.


You will need a device that supports Live Photo and an actual Live Photo to do this, you can take a Live Photo with the iPhone or iPad camera if you haven’t done so before, and then use that for testing this out yourself if desired. Of course you’d need to enable Live Photos first before such an image is captured.

How to Set Key Frame Photo in Live Photos for iOS

  1. Open the “Photos” app and choose any Live Photo
  2. Tap the “Edit” button in the corner
  3. How to set key photo on Live Photos for iOScdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-1-139×300.jpeg 139w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-1-768×1663.jpeg 768w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-1-900×1949.jpeg 900w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-1.jpeg 1125w” sizes=”(max-width: 369px) 100vw, 369px” style=”max-width: 100%; margin: 0.5em auto; display: block; height: auto;” class=””>

  4. Scrub on the timeline with your finger to find the key photo you want to set
  5. How to set key photo on Live Photos for iOScdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-2-139×300.jpeg 139w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-2-768×1663.jpeg 768w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-2-900×1949.jpeg 900w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-2.jpeg 1125w” sizes=”(max-width: 369px) 100vw, 369px” style=”max-width: 100%; margin: 0.5em auto; display: block; height: auto;” class=””>

  6. Tap and hold on the thumbnail then choose “Make Key Photo”
  7. How to set key photo on Live Photos for iOScdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-3-139×300.jpeg 139w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-3-768×1663.jpeg 768w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-3-900×1949.jpeg 900w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-3.jpeg 1125w” sizes=”(max-width: 369px) 100vw, 369px” style=”max-width: 100%; margin: 0.5em auto; display: block; height: auto;” class=””>
  8. Choose “Done” to set the changed key photo in iOS
  9. How to set key photo on Live Photos for iOScdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-4-139×300.jpeg 139w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-4-768×1663.jpeg 768w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-4-900×1949.jpeg 900w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-4.jpeg 1125w” sizes=”(max-width: 369px) 100vw, 369px” style=”max-width: 100%; margin: 0.5em auto; display: block; height: auto;” class=””>

Now anytime you’re browsing the thumbnail view of Live Photos in the Photos app, or if you share the Live Photos, the newly set Key Photo will be the default.

How to set key photo on Live Photos for iOScdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-5-139×300.jpeg 139w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-5-768×1663.jpeg 768w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-5-900×1949.jpeg 900w, cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/set-live-photo-key-photo-ios-5.jpeg 1125w” sizes=”(max-width: 369px) 100vw, 369px” style=”max-width: 100%; margin: 0.5em auto; display: block; height: auto;” class=””>

Live Photo is a neat feature with a lot of tricks up its sleeve. One of the more interesting capabilities recently added is the ability to use Live Photos to take long exposure images on iPhone or iPad. And don’t forget you can always convert a Live Photo to still image in iOS if you later decide the animated picture isn’t what you’re looking for after all.

If you liked this trick, you’ll probably appreciate checking out more Live Photo tips here too.

How to download a copy of your Facebook data


How to download a copy of your Facebook data

Facebook and privacy If you want a better understanding of all the information Facebook’s storing on you, you’re going to want to download a copy of your Facebook data. Here’s how!

A MacBook Pro with a user's Facebook data displayed - How to download your Facebook data

Taking control of your Facebook data starts with understanding just how much of your data is stored with Facebook. The social media service offers a self-help tool that gives you access to your entire trove of personal data. It’s actually a fairly simple process that lets you see all your photos, videos, friends, contact info, messages, apps, and quite a bit more that Facebook’s storing on its servers.

How to download a copy of your Facebook data

  1. On the web, visit the General Account Settings page.
  2. At the bottom of your General Account Settings, click Download a copy of your Facebook data.
  3. Click Start My Archive.
  4. Enter your password and click Submit to continue.

  5. Click Start My Archive to start the process of creating your Facebook archive.
  6. Click Okay.
  7. Wait for an e-mail or Facebook notification letting you know your Facebook archive is ready to download.
  8. Click Download Archive.

  9. Enter your password and click Submit to download your Facebook archive.

Your archive will download as a ZIP archive. Inside you’ll find four folders and an HTML page. Clicking on the HTML page will take you to a local representation of your Facebook archive. You can click on the links below your profile photo on the left to see everything Facebook is storing. If you’re wondering, yep, Timeline goes all the way back to the beginning. I cringed — younger me was so angsty.

Want to know what data you’ll be able to see in your Facebook archive? Here’s what Facebook says will be made available to you:

Data Type Description
About Me Information you added to the About section of your timeline like relationships, work, education, where you live and more. It includes any updates or changes you made in the past and what is currently in the About section of your timeline.
Account Status History The dates when your account was reactivated, deactivated, disabled or deleted.
Active Sessions All stored active sessions, including date, time, device, IP address, machine cookie and browser information.
Ads Clicked Dates, times and titles of ads clicked (limited retention period).
Address Your current address or any past addresses you had on your account.
Ad Topics A list of topics that you may be targeted against based on your stated likes, interests and other data you put in your timeline.
Alternate Name Any alternate names you have on your account (ex: a maiden name or a nickname).
Apps All of the apps you have added.
Birthday Visibility How your birthday appears on your timeline.
Chat A history of the conversations you’ve had on Facebook Chat (a complete history is available directly from your messages inbox).
Check-ins The places you’ve checked into.
Currency Your preferred currency on Facebook. If you use Facebook Payments, this will be used to display prices and charge your credit cards.
Current City The city you added to the About section of your timeline.
Date of Birth The date you added to Birthday in the About section of your timeline.
Education Any information you added to Education field in the About section of your timeline.
Emails Email addresses added to your account (even those you may have removed).
Events Events you’ve joined or been invited to.
Facial Recognition Data A unique number based on a comparison of the photos you’re tagged in. We use this data to help others tag you in photos.
Family Friends you’ve indicated are family members.
Favorite Quotes Information you’ve added to the Favorite Quotes section of the About section of your timeline.
Followers A list of people who follow you.
Friend Requests Pending sent and received friend requests.
Friends A list of your friends.
Gender The gender you added to the About section of your timeline.
Groups A list of groups you belong to on Facebook.
Hidden from News Feed Any friends, apps or pages you’ve hidden from your News Feed.
Hometown The place you added to hometown in the About section of your timeline.
IP Addresses A list of IP addresses where you’ve logged into your Facebook account (won’t include all historical IP addresses as they are deleted according to a retention schedule).
Locale The language you’ve selected to use Facebook in.
Logins IP address, date and time associated with logins to your Facebook account.
Logouts IP address, date and time associated with logouts from your Facebook account.
Messages Messages you’ve sent and received on Facebook. Note, if you’ve deleted a message it won’t be included in your download as it has been deleted from your account.
Name The name on your Facebook account.
Name Changes Any changes you’ve made to the original name you used when you signed up for Facebook.
Networks Networks (affiliations with schools or workplaces) that you belong to on Facebook.
Pages You Admin A list of pages you admin.
Pending Friend Requests Pending sent and received friend requests.
Phone Numbers Mobile phone numbers you’ve added to your account, including verified mobile numbers you’ve added for security purposes.
Photos Photos you’ve uploaded to your account.
Photos Metadata Any metadata that is transmitted with your uploaded photos.
Physical Tokens Badges you’ve added to your account.
Pokes A list of who’s poked you and who you’ve poked. Poke content from our mobile poke app is not included because it’s only available for a brief period of time. After the recipient has viewed the content it’s permanently deleted from our systems.
Political Views Any information you added to Political Views in the About section of timeline.
Posts by Others Anything posted to your timeline by someone else, like wall posts or links shared on your timeline by friends.
Recent Activities Actions you’ve taken and interactions you’ve recently had.
Registration Date The date you joined Facebook.
Religious Views The current information you added to Religious Views in the About section of your timeline.
Removed Friends People you’ve removed as friends.
Screen Names The screen names you’ve added to your account, and the service they’re associated with. You can also see if they’re hidden or visible on your account.
Spoken Languages The languages you added to Spoken Languages in the About section of your timeline.
Status Updates Any status updates you’ve posted.
Work Any current information you’ve added to Work in the About section of your timeline.
Videos Videos you’ve posted to your timeline.

Thoughts?

Do you think downloading your Facebook archive will be a good thing for you? Are you planning to keep using Facebook? Share your thoughts in the comments!

Mikah Sargent

Mikah Sargent is Senior Editor at Mobile Nations. When he’s not bothering his chihuahuas, Mikah spends entirely too much time and money on HomeKit products. You can follow him on Twitter at @mikahsargent if you’re so inclined.

How to set up Family Sharing and create a child’s Apple ID on iPhone and iPad


How to set up Family Sharing and create a child’s Apple ID on iPhone and iPad

Family Sharing is a handy feature that Apple offers to let up to six people share things like iCloud Storage, Apple Music, iTune purchases, location data, and more. Whether you’ve never needed the feature before or just want to get it set up for the first time, follow along for how to start using Family Sharing.

Family Sharing for iOS was first introduced back in 2014 with iOS 8, but Apple has brought along some handy new features like being able to share one iCloud Storage plan amongst six people more recently.

Setting up Family Sharing is mostly straight forward, but there are a couple of details and restrictions to look out for.

How to set up Family Sharing and create a child’s Apple ID on iPhone and iPad

  1. Open Settings and tap on your name
  2. Tap on Set up Family Sharing
  3. Next tap on Get Started and choose which category you’d like to start sharing first
  4. Follow the prompts until you see the option to Invite Family Members
  5. Add any members that already have an Apple ID that you do not help managing purchases and downloads, etc.

Interesting enough, Apple doesn’t let you turn on sharing for all the of the categories shown in the image above right away. We’ll visit how to do that in a moment.

Continuing on, you’ll need a credit card as the payment method to use Family Sharing. It seems the easiest thing to do is add an someone who has an Apple ID already that doesn’t need any parental controls during the initial set up. We’ll look at adding or creating an Apple ID for a child that will include parental control options.

After completing the steps above, tap on Family Sharing again as shown above in the image on the right.

Notice the list of shared features that you can turn on. Only the first option you started with during the steps above will be turned on for now. For a closer look at sharing iCloud Storage, see our guide here.

To invite more family members or create an Apple ID for a child to be able to approve purchases and downloads, tap on Add Family Member…

At this point you should be all set up for a simpler iOS experience with Family Sharing! For more help getting the most out of your Apple devices, check out our how to guide as well as the following articles:


Check out 9to5Mac on YouTube for more Apple news:



How to put your iPhone or iPad into DFU mode


How to put your iPhone or iPad into DFU mode

How to put your iPhone or iPad into DFU mode

Whether you want to jailbreak, un-jailbreak, update from an expired beta, or need a solution when nothing else is working, Apple has a solution for you: Putting your iPhone, iPod touch, or iPad into DFU (Device Firmware Update) mode can be your last, best hope for success.

DFU mode can help you get your phone back into working order, putting your iPhone into a state where it can still communicate with iTunes on Windows or Mac and be restored, but it won’t trip the bootloader or iOS, in case your software has become royally borked. This allows your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch to be restored from any state. DFU mode requires a bit of timing and can take practice to get right: If at first you don’t succeed, don’t be afraid to try again.

  • How to put your iPhone 8, iPhone 8 Plus, or iPhone X into DFU mode
  • How to put your iPhone 7 or iPhone 7 Plus into DFU mode
  • How to put your iPhone 6s or 6s Plus into DFU mode
  • How to put your iPhone 6 or 6 Plus into DFU mode
  • How to put your iPhone SE into DFU mode
  • How to put your iPhone 5s or earlier into DFU mode
  • How to put your iPad into DFU mode

How to put your iPhone into DFU mode

With the reassignment of more-common button combinations to Apple’s SOS mode, DFU mode is a bit different on the iPhone 8 and iPhone X than previous generations. Here’s how to do it!

  1. Plug your iPhone X or iPhone 8 into your Mac or PC.
  2. Make sure iTunes is running.
  3. Turn Off your iPhone X or iPhone 8 (if it isn’t already).
  4. Press and hold down the On/Off button on the right side of your iPhone for 3 seconds.
  5. Press and hold down the volume down button on the left side of your iPhone while still holding down the On/Off button.
  6. Keep holding both buttons down for 10 seconds. (If you see the Apple logo, you’ve held them too long and will need to start again.)
  7. Let go of the On/Off Button but keep holding the volume down button for about 5 seconds. (If you see the “Plug into iTunes” screen, then you’ve held it too long and will need to start again.)
  8. If the screen stays black, that’s it! Your iPhone should now be in DFU mode.

How to reboot, reset, or enter DFU mode on iPhone 8 and iPhone X

How to put your iPhone 7 into DFU mode

If all else has failed, you may need to restore your iPhone 7; if it won’t restore normally, you’ll need to put it into DFU mode.

How to reboot, reset, or enter DFU mode on iPhone 7

How to put your iPhone 6s or earlier, iPad, or iPod touch into DFU mode

These instructions work for all iPhone models before iPhone 7 (iPhone 6s and earlier, including iPhone SE), along with all models of iPad and iPod touch.

  1. Plug in your iPad or iPod touch to your Mac or Windows PC.
  2. Make sure iTunes is running.
  3. Turn Off your iPad or iPod touch if it isn’t already.
    1. Press and hold down the On/Off button on the top of the device for 3 seconds.
    2. Swipe the slide to power off slider to the right.


  4. Press and hold down the On/Off button on the top of your device for 3 seconds.
  5. Press and hold down the Home button on the front of your device while still holding down the On/Off button.
  6. Keep holding both buttons down for 10 seconds. (If you see the Apple logo, you’ve held them too long and will need to start again.)
  7. Let go of the On/Off Button but keep holding the Home button for about 5 seconds. (If you see the “Plug into iTunes” screen, then you’ve held it too long and will need to start again.)
  8. If the screen stays black, that’s it! Your iPad or iPod touch should now be in DFU mode.


At this point, iTunes should show you an alert saying it has detected your iPad or iPod touch and will allow it to be restored.

Reminder: If you see any logos on your device, you might be in Recovery Mode, but you’re not in DFU mode. If Recovery Mode works, great. If not, try for DFU Mode again.

Questions?

Let us know in the comments.

Updated January 2018: Updated for iOS 11, iPhone 8 and 8 Plus, and iPhone X.