watchOS 4: How to customize and use the new Siri face on Apple Watch | 9to5Mac

watchOS 4: How to customize and use the new Siri face on Apple Watch

watchOS 4 introduces a new Siri watch face on Apple Watch that intelligently updates to show you relevant content throughout the day. The Siri watch face pulls data from 14 different sources by default, but customizing these sources can help remove information from the timeline that you don’t need and make the watch face more useful.

Sony A6500

The Siri watch face includes a digital clock with a flashing second indicator (but no option for seconds), two customizable complications including a new Siri complication, and two dynamic tiles of information. These tiles will update depending on time of day, date, current events, activity progress, and more.

Like other watch faces, swiping down from the top reveals Notification Center and swiping up from the bottom opens Control Center. Spin the Digital Crown on Siri face, however, and the timeline becomes a vertical carousel of information.

Rotating the Digital Crown downward shows Recent and All-Day tiles like temperature highs and lows and Now Playing cards. The tap minimizes to the top right corner with a light background indicating that it’s a button you can tap to return to the main view. You can also click the Digital Crown to leave the timeline and go back to the starting point.

Rotating the Digital Crown upward shows you tiles for Up Next and Tomorrow. Siri face previews the first Up Next tiles by default, and scrolling here reveals more. Rolling the Digital Crown lets you move around the timeline too.

While these tiles change dynamically, Siri face features two complications that you set. My default, the new Siri complication is located in the top left (this is the only face with this complication) and the date is located above the digital clock.

Tapping the Siri complication invokes the voice assistant just like holding the Digital Crown or saying ‘Hey Siri’ when the display is on. It’s a visually satisfying complication, but you may get more use out of Siri face if you put something else here since you can invoke Siri with voice or a click.

Press the Siri face firmly, then select Customize to choose between Activity, Alarm, Battery, Breathe, Calendar, Date, Find My Friends, Heart Rate, Home, Mail, Maps, Messages, Moon Phase, Music, News, Phone, Reminders, Remote, Siri, Stocks, Stopwatch, Sunrise/Sunset, Timer, Weather, Weather Conditions, Workout, World Clock, and third-party complications.

The top right complication is a bit smaller and can be set to Alarm, Battery, Calendar, Date, Heart Rate, News, Stocks, Stopwatch, Sunrise/Sunset, Timer, Weather, World Clock, and third-party complications.

After you personalize the two complications, consider customizing which data sources Siri face uses. You can’t do this from the Apple Watch, however, so you’ll need your iPhone. Open the Watch app on your iPhone, look for the Siri face in the My Faces section (or add it from the Face Gallery tab at the bottom), then tap the Siri face to reveal customization options.

From here you can set both complications just like on the Apple Watch, and a Data Sources list lets you toggle apps that appear on Siri face on and off. watchOS 4.0 includes 14 data sources: Alarms, Breathe, Calendar, Home, News, Now Playing, Photos, Reminders, Stocks, Stopwatch, Timer, Wallet, Weather, and Workout.

You can’t use third-party apps as data sources (yet), but you can disable data sources that aren’t useful for you and declutter the Siri face timeline. For example, I toggle off Photos, News, and Stocks to avoid seeing poorly chosen snapshots, the latest Trump headline, and stock market changes on my Siri face.

This cleans up the experience for me and only surfaces useful tiles like HomeKit scene triggers, exercise recommendations, and upcoming Wallet passes.

My ‘Good morning’ scene is displayed when I wake up, and the ‘Good night’ scene is shown in the evening. Tapping these launches the Home app and shows the specific scene in the list, then tapping the scene activates it (which turns my lights off, locks the front door, etc.).

Siri face is a great exercise coach, too, as it will recommend the exact amount of walking you should do to complete your Move goal at the end of the day. Siri face also shows the Now Playing card for music and podcasts played on the iPhone (or music on the watch), upcoming alarms and reminders appear in the timeline as well as calendar events, and Wallet passes are surfaced to the top when needed just like the lock screen on the iPhone.

You’ll also see currently active Timers appear dynamically, sunrise and sunset times, and Breathe app reminders.

I wish there was a version with analog watch hands (and second hands on the digital clock) and third-party apps as data sources would be appreciated. It also feels unnecessary to open Notification Center to view a missed alert when the Siri face timeline could optionally display alerts as well, but perhaps future updates will bring these changes.

Siri face is a neat way to change how your Apple Watch works and how you interact with apps without changing watchOS for everyone. I don’t use it 24/7, but I have kept it in my watch face lineup since I started testing it with watchOS 4 beta earlier this year.

Siri face is available on all Apple Watches running watchOS 4 or later.

Converting JPEG to HEIF and why it’s a bad idea

Converting JPEG to HEIF and why it’s a bad idea

Photos in High Sierra

Should you convert your existing iPhoto Library to use new file formats to save space?

One of the new features of macOS 10.13 High Sierra and iOS 11 is the addition of two new media formats:

• High-Efficiency Image File Format (HEIF) for photos.

• High-Efficiency Video Coding (HEVC), also known as H.265, for videos.

HEIF is intended to be a successor to JPEG, while HEVC will supplant H.264. Both of these new formats are industry standards and though they may not be in wide use at the moment, they will be real soon now for three big reasons:

  1. Add anything new to iOS and it quickly gets disseminated to tens of millions of iOS devices. Note Apple’s comments about how it became the largest augmented reality platform overnight once AR technology shipped as part of iOS 11. We all suddenly had the chance to enjoy a T-Rex galavanting unencumbered around a basketball court.
  2. The two new formats have much better compression algorithms than JPEG and H.264, so photos and videos encoded with these formats will take up much less space on iCloud Photo Library and on flash-memory constrained devices like iPhones and iPads.
  3. Even though the new file formats compress photos and videos to a much greater degree, there is no loss of visual quality.

So… better quality and dramatically smaller file sizes? Sold! Where do I sign?

HEIF and HEVC are the future of digital photos and videos

The good news is that any photos or videos shot with recent iPhones (the 7 series or later) and iPads (the 10.5-inch and 2nd generation 12.9-inch Pro models) that are running iOS 11 will use these new media formats by default.

You have the option of continuing to use JPEG and H.264 formats on these devices if you want. But because Apple has already built in a mechanism to convert a HEIF file to JPEG when it is shared (for example, through email or Messages) there’s no real good reason to use the less efficient JPEG format. It’s a little dicier when it comes to sharing H.265 videos on some older devices, but the easy solution is to upgrade to macOS High Sierra and iOS 11 and work with the video in its new format.

So we have a rosy future ahead, with the ability to stretch our storage a bit farther without an increase in cost, leaving all the more room for AR T-Rexes to fill.

All of this, of course, begs the question: OK, so how do I convert all my old JPEGs to HEIF and H.264 videos to H.265? If saving space with no loss of quality is a good idea for new photos and video, isn’t it an even better idea for the thousands of photos and videos I already have that are sucking up precious storage space?

Converting could be awesome, but right now, it’s not

The internet is full of websites that offer to convert a file based on one format into another. You can find them with a simple search. Here are two that I came across, both of which offer the ability to convert your JPEGs to HEIF and H.264 videos to H.265.

And there are apps that’ll do likewise. But because HEIF and HVEC are only now emerging as future mainstream formats, many of these websites and apps either can’t handle the new formats at all, or have some detrimental byproducts, such as removing EXIF data (that is, data about a photograph, such as location and camera settings) during the conversion process.

One website, JPEGtoHEIF lists step-by-step instructions for converting a JPEG to a HEIF, but it’s not for the faint of heart. If you understand terms like Homebrew, Git, cmake, and FFMPEG, you should give it a try and tell me how it worked out for you. But, if those sideloading programs kinda give you the shakes, do like I did and take a pass on that one.

Nevertheless, I’m the curious sort. So I did a little digging for some Mac apps that handle conversion while also safely hide the command line from me.

How I converted H.264 to H.265 and what my cat thought of the whole process

Video on iPhone

Handbrake, a free, open-source video transcoder, can convert H.264 files into H.265 format. I tested it with — what else? — a video of my cat playing with the business end of a laser pointer. The H.264 video was about 16 seconds long, 21.4 MB in size, and had a .m4v file extension. It took just a minute or so for Handbrake to convert it to the H.265 format. After conversion, the file was 5.4 MB in size (a 75% reduction in size compared to the original) and had a .mp4 file extension.

Great! So it worked… but not really.

The H.264 file would not open in QuickTime Player and only the audio played when I opened it with iTunes. So I tried it using VLC, a free video player that can handle a lot of different formats. To my eyes, there was no discernable difference in quality compared to the H.264 version (and the cat didn’t corral the laser in either version of the video, I know you wanted to know that).

When it came time to drag the H.265 video into the Photos app so I could check on the status of the EXIF data, Photos wouldn’t take it. Even sneakily changing the file’s extension to .m4v didn’t work. I used a couple of other apps to try to dig out the EXIF data to no avail.

So, I re-transcoded it using Handbrake back into H.264 format. Again, it took just a minute or so and created a file that, at 6.5 MB in size, was slightly larger than the H.265 version. I was able to successfully import it into Photos with a drag and drop (even though it retained its .mp4 file extension), but the EXIM data — specifically, the date and location of the video and the camera information — was missing.

The mess I made converting a JPEG photo to HEIF

HEIF photo

Image2HEIF costs a few bucks on the Mac App Store and will convert images in various formats (BMP, GIF, JP2, JPG, and PNG) into HEIF.

The app description makes it clear that “original EXIF/metadata is not transferred to converted .heic image”. So no important information is saved like date, location, or camera settings. In addition, while I successfully converted three different JPEG files and saw no discernible drop-off in quality, the file size was not reduced by a significant amount. In fact, in two of the three cases, the HEIC files were slightly larger than their JPEG originals.

Just for fun, I converted a 3 MB JPEG file into a 20.9 MB PNG format using Preview’s export command. Then I ran the PNG file through Image2HEIF and it produced a 2.9 MB HEIF file. So, you know, what’s the point?

To make things even more difficult, all of the HEIF files were locked when I opened them with Preview, and when I tried to unlock them, I was informed that the file didn’t support editing, so I was offered the chance to duplicate it into a TIFF format to edit. I could, however, just import and edit them in Photos.

Stop to think whether you should

In the movie Jurassic Park, the mathematician played by Jeff Goldblum has a rather close encounter with a T-Rex (of the non-AR variety), brought back to life through advanced genetic engineering. He delivers a very succinct ethics lecture to the project leader and his quest to bring dinosaurs back to life: “Your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn’t stop to think if they should.”

I’m not saying that a JPEG converted to HEIF is going to rampage through your neighborhood, drink all the water in your swimming pool, tear the roof off of your house, and swallow you whole. But it could do something that you might not like. At the very best, it’s a time-consuming process that doesn’t really reduce the file size that much.

Based on my limited testing, it’s probably not worth the effort for most folks to convert a bunch of videos and photos to the new HEVC and HEIF formats just to save some storage space. A lot of time and effort would be involved to make the conversions — not to mention having to recreate lost EXIM data. For me, with the current level of technology available, it’s not worth the tradeoff.

At some point, the formats will become more mainstream and Apple will likely build something into Photos and/or iCloud that will help take care of this. In meantime, I’m going to stick with what I’ve got.

Any questions?

If you’ve tried converting photos or videos to the new formats, tell us about it in the comments below.

iOS 11 Feels Slow? 11 Tips to Speed Up iOS 11 on iPhone or iPad

iOS 11 Feels Slow? 11 Tips to Speed Up iOS 11 on iPhone or iPad

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There are mixed reports that updating to iOS 11 has slowed down some iPhone and iPad hardware, or that performance of tasks like opening and interacting with apps is slower after installing iOS 11. If your iPhone or iPad feels slow after installing iOS 11, then you might want to try a few of the tricks we have outlined in this tutorial to speed up your device again.

By the way, many of the tricks that help to speed up sluggish performance can also positively impact battery, so if you’re having iOS 11 battery life problems then you may find some cross-benefit to this approach as well.

Speed Up iOS 11 on iPhone and iPad

We’re going to cover a wide variety of tips here to potentially help speed up a device. Aside from the first two tips involving installing software updates and then having some patience and waiting a while, you can follow the others in any particular order.

1: Install Any Software Updates for iOS and Apps

Before going any further, check for software updates both to iOS and to your apps. Software updates can often remedy performance issues and are not to be skipped, particularly if a performance problem is related to a bug or some other problem that has been resolved in an available update.

iOS settings icon

For getting any updates to iOS 11 (such as iOS 11.0.2, iOS 11.1, etc)

  • Open the “Settings” app and go to > General > Software Update > and choose to Download & Install any update to iOS 11

For getting updates to apps:

  • Open the ‘App Store’ app and go to the Updates tab, and install any available app updates

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2: Just Updated to iOS 11? Have Some Patience and Wait

If you just updated an iPhone or iPad to iOS 11 and the device feels slow, have some patience. When a major software update arrives on your device, iOS will re-index everything for Spotlight, Siri, Photos, and perform other background tasks. This can lead to the feeling the device is slow because of the increased background activity being performed.

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The best thing to do is wait a few days, leave the device plugged into a wall outlet overnight, and let it complete whatever system behavior is necessary. After a night or two things usually behave normally again and performance is often better, and often this fixes battery life problems too.

3: Turn Off iOS Background App Refresh

Background App Refresh allows apps to update themselves in the background. This is nice for multitasking quickness, but it can also lead to a hit in system performance. Turning it off is easy, and most users won’t notice the difference in how apps function anyway.

  • Open “Settings” and go to > General > Background App Refresh > OFF

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4: Disable Siri Suggestions & Siri Look Up

You can often speed up how fast Spotlight behaves, as well as the Notifications screen and elsewhere, by turning off Siri Suggestions and Siri Lookup features.

  • Open “Settings” and go to > Siri & Search > “Suggestions in Search” to OFF and “Suggestions in Look Up” to OFF

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5: Force Reboot the Device

Sometimes forcibly rebooting a device can help performance, particularly if some errant process is going haywire in the background, or some app or other event is out of control

For most iPhone and iPad devices, hold down the POWER BUTTON and the HOME BUTTON concurrently until you see the  Apple logo appear on screen.

On iPhone 7 and iPhone 7 Plus, hold down the VOLUME DOWN BUTTON and POWER BUTTON concurrently until you see the  Apple logo appear on screen.

Then just wait for the device to boot back up again.

6: Use a Simple Wallpaper

Using a plain or simple wallpaper originating from a small file size image can help to speed things up sometimes. The idea behind using a simple or plain wallpaper is that it requires less memory and system resources to display, thus it can help to speed up drawing and redrawing of the Home Screen of the iOS device.

  • Open “Settings” and go to > Wallpaper > Select a boring wallpaper, either of a single color or a very small file size

Boring gray×225.jpg 300w,×576.jpg 768w,×675.jpg 900w” sizes=”(max-width: 610px) 100vw, 610px” class=”” style=”max-width: 100%; margin: 0.5em auto; display: block; height: auto;”>

The Home Screen might look a bit more boring when a simple background wallpaper picture, (or not, depending on your taste) but it also might feel a tad faster. Try it out, you can use the simple tiny gray image wallpaper below if you’d like, or find your own.

7: Disable Parallax UI Effects and Reduce Motion

iOS uses various visual effects which look snazzy but require more system resources to draw and render properly. Disabling those system user interface visual effects can improve performance, or at least the perception of improved performance by disabling the animations.

  • Open “Settings” and go to > General > Accessibility > Reduce Motion and turn ON

Reduce×225.jpg 300w,×576.jpg 768w,×675.jpg 900w” sizes=”(max-width: 610px) 100vw, 610px” class=”” style=”max-width: 100%; margin: 0.5em auto; display: block; height: auto;”>

* While in Reduce Motion settings, you might want to turn off “Auto-Play Message Effects” too, since those animations in Messages app can also make things feel a bit sluggish sometimes.

When you turn on Reduce Motion, the zipping and zooming effects of opening and closing apps is replaced with a simple subtle fading animation too.

8: Reduce iOS System Transparency Effects

Transparency and blur effects are scattered throughout iOS, from the Dock, to Control Center, to Notifications panels, and more. They look nice, but rendering those blur effects can use system resources and make things feel sluggish sometimes. Turning them off may help the device feel faster:

  • Open “Settings” and go to > General > Accessibility > Increase Contrast > Reduce Transparency to ON

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Using Increase Contrast can make things look a bit plain, but using things like Control Center should feel faster as a result.

9: Make Sufficient Free Storage Space Available on the iPhone or iPad

Having sufficient free storage available is ideal for optimal performance of an iPad or iPhone. Generally speaking it’s a good idea to have 10% or more free storage available. So if you have a 32GB device, then having 3 GB of free space or more is desirable. This is so there is plenty of available space for caches, updating apps and iOS itself, and performing other system functions.

  • Open “Settings” and go to > General > then choose “Storage” (now labeled as iPhone Storage or iPad Storage, respectively)

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Once you’re in the Storage management section of your device, you can either follow the recommendations to free up storage space, or delete unused or old apps, or take other actions necessary to free up storage on the iPhone or iPad.

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This is important, and if your iPhone or iPad is full or very low on storage, performance will suffer, plus you won’t be able to install updates to apps or system software, and other strange behavior can occur like locking a user out of their email, data being mysteriously removed from the device, amongst other curiosities. Always aim to have some storage space available.

10: Reset iOS System Settings

Resetting your iOS device settings may speed up performance for some users. Be aware if you reset device settings, you will need to make configurations to all of your custom settings changes again, like many covered previously in this article.

  • Open Setttings and go to General > Reset > Reset All Settings

11: Backup & Restore iOS

A common troubleshooting trick is to backup a device to iTunes or iCloud, then restore iOS. This can sometimes fix obscure performance issues, and if you contact Apple to troubleshoot a device they will likely want you to perform this action as part of their process.

You can backup to iTunes, or iCloud, or both. Always backup before beginning a restore process.

Using iTunes with the device connected to the computer, you then choose to “Restore” the device. Or you can choose to Restore directly on the device itself and select either iCloud or iTunes backup to restore from.

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Some users may also try setting up a device as new which means nothing is on the device at that point. An obvious flaw to that approach is the iPhone or iPad would be lacking any data, images, pictures, photos, notes, apps, contacts, or any other personal information. This is why most users choose to restore from a backup instead of setting up as new. Nonetheless, if you don’t care about that, setting up a device as new can sometimes make it feel snappier.

What about reverting from iOS 11 back to iOS 10?

Some users may wish to downgrade iOS 11 back to a prior version of system software on their iPhone or iPad.

While reverting to the prior iOS release was possible for a while, unfortunately this is no longer an option for most devices, because Apple has stopped signing the iOS 10.3.3 firmware. You can learn about how to check iOS IPSW firmware signing status here if the topic interests you.

Have you noticed any performance issues with iOS 11? Did these tricks help to speed up your sluggish iPhone or iPad? Do you have any tips to help speed up a slow iPhone or iPad? Have you had other iOS 11 problems to troubleshoot? Let us know your experience in the comments below!

How to disable geotagging in the Camera app on iPhone and iPad

How to disable geotagging in the Camera app on iPhone and iPad

How do I turn off location tagging for photos on iPhone and iPad?

By default, the Camera app on your iPhone and iPad records geographic data, along with a bunch of other metadata, which basically tells you where the photo was taken. This is perfect for when you want to look for photos you took while on holiday in Italy, but it isn’t always great when sharing photos with the public, like you would on Facebook or Instagram.

  • Why you would want to disable geotagging
  • How to disable geotagging in the Camera app
  • Best apps for removing photo data

Why you would want to disable geotagging

Basically, you’d want to disable geotagging because that photo can then be tracked to a certain location. If you plan on sharing certain photos online, then those photos could be traced to your location. That’s fine if you went on vacation and decided to upload the photos afterward — you’re not there anymore. But if you’re sharing photos of your new house or baby’s first steps, you would necessarily want anyone being able to track you down just because you posted a picture.

It may sound a little like fear-mongering, but with the wealth of information and resources available to those who may want to do you harm, it’s best to protect your personal data on all sides.

How to disable geotagging in the Camera app

  1. Launch Settings from the Home screen of your iPhone or iPad.
  2. Tap Privacy. You’ll have to scroll down a bit to find it.
  3. Tap Location Services.

    Launch Settings, tap Privacy, tap Location Services

  4. Tap Camera.
  5. Tap Never.

    Tap Camera, tap Never

Best apps for removing photo data

If you don’t your photos being traced back to you in any way, you can strip all of the metadata using a third-party app. Basically, these apps integrate with Photos and allow you to actually see all of the metadata that each photo you take records. When it comes time to share the photo, you can choose to share it without any metadata. Here are some apps that can help you out with that:


Let us know in the comments below!

Tip: Sådan slår du automatisk lysstyrkeregulering fra i iOS 11

Tip: Sådan slår du automatisk lysstyrkeregulering fra i iOS 11×139.jpg 247w,×415.jpg 737w,×553.jpg 982w,×642.jpg 1140w,×198.jpg 352w” class=”” style=”max-width: 100%; height: auto; margin: auto; display: block; clear: both;”>

iPhonen justerer selv skærmens baggrundsbelysning alt efter lysintensiteten i omgivelserne. Det betyder at lyset i skærmen dæmpes når det er mørkt, mens der skrues op for lyset hvis man går uden for i solskinsvejr. Lysintensiteten registeret af en lysmåler der sidder i den øverste kant på forsiden af iPhonen.

Ideen med automatisk justering af skærmens lysstyrke er dels at det sparer batteri og dels at sikre en ensartet synsoplevelse. Skærmens lys er noget af det mest energikrævende i iPhonen, så det giver god mening af få skruet ned automatisk, når ikke der er behov for det. Omvendt skrues der så også automatisk op, når der er behov for det for at sikre at man overhovedet kan se hvad der er på skærmen. Funktionen er altså smart nok.

Der kan dog være situationer, hvor man ønsker selv at styre lyset. Måske er man bare ikke enig i den automatiske justerings valg eller måske ønsker man at at spare på strømmen ved at holde lysstyrken lav også i kraftigt lys. Derfor har man tidligere kunnet slå funktioner fra i Indstillinger under skærm og lysstyrke. Med lanceringen af iOS 11 er den mulighed forsvundet. Eller rettere sagt: Den er blevet flyttet et andet sted hen. Apple er blevet så sikre på at den automatiske funktion ved bedst, at man skal ind i indstillingerne for folk med særlige behov for at slå det fra.

Hvis du vil slå den automatiske tilpasning af lyset i skærmen fra skal du derfor gå ind i:

Indstillinger > Generelt > Tilgængelighed > Tilpasning af skærm. Her skal du slå “Automatisk lysstyrke” fra.

Læg mærke til at der nedenunder funktionen står at det kan påvirke batteritiden. Dette er væsentligt. Skruer du lyset for højt op påvirkes batteritiden negativt, men omvendt kan du påvirke den positivt ved at skrue lyset for langt ned. Alt i alt er det bedste nok at lade funktionen være slået til.

How to Download a Full macOS High Sierra Installer App

How to Download a Full macOS High Sierra Installer App

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Many Mac users who are attempting to download macOS High Sierra from the Mac App Store will find that a small 19 MB version of “Install macOS High” downloads to the /Applications folder of the target Mac, rather than the complete 5.2 GB Installer application for macOS High Sierra. This is annoying because it prevents a single download from being used on multiple computers, plus the small installer requires an internet connection during usage to download the rest of the High Sierra update files. Additionally, the tiny 19 MB incomplete installer prevents users from being able to create a macOS High Sierra USB installer drive or other custom update options available through the command line, like skipping the APFS update.

This tutorial will show you a workaround trick that allows Mac users to download the full macOS High Sierra “Install macOS High” file at 5.2 GB with the complete installer tool set and all dmg files and associated Install macOS High tools, rather than the tiny incomplete truncated installer at 19 MB.

How to Download the Full “Install macOS High” Application

Warning: this method relies on a third party tool from an unverified third party source, if you are not comfortable with using unvetted and unverified software, and if you do not understand the risks associated with using potentially dubious software, do not follow this process. This is for advanced users only.

  1. Go to here and download the High Sierra patcher application*
  2. Launch “MacOS High Sierra Patcher” and ignore everything about patching, instead pull down the “Tools” menu and choose “Download MacOS High Sierra”
  3. Download the complete macOS High Sierra installer

  4. Confirm that you want to download the complete macOS High Sierra install application, and then point it to a location to save on the local hard drive
  5. Confirm to download full macOS High Sierra installer

  6. The patcher app will notify you when the download is complete, when it is done downloading quit out of the patcher app
  7. Download of full macOS high sierra installer finished

  8. Locate the “Install macOS High” file you downloaded, it will be the complete installer application with the full Contents/Resources/ toolkit available
  9. MacOS high sierra installer complete×150.jpg 150w,×300.jpg 300w,×144.jpg 144w” sizes=”(max-width: 212px) 100vw, 212px” class=”” style=”max-width: 100%; margin: 0.5em auto; display: block;” apple-inline=”yes” id=”CECA3D2D-AA60-4521-99AD-AB59571C015E” src=””>

* The “macOS High Sierra Patcher” application is intended for those with unsupported Macs and Hackintosh users, but any Mac user can use the app to be able to download the complete installer file from Apple servers. The source of this patcher application is a MacRumors Forums

You can confirm that you have the complete Install macOS High application by getting info on the file, the complete installer should be around 5.2 GB rather than the tiny 19 MB incomplete installer that requires additional downloads.

The complete macOS High Sierra installer×300.jpg 231w,×996.jpg 768w,×1167.jpg 900w, 1024w” sizes=”(max-width: 610px) 100vw, 610px” class=”” style=”max-width: 100%; margin: 0.5em auto; display: block; height: auto;”>

Why do some users get a small incomplete version of macOS High Sierra installer from the App Store?

This is not yet known, but it happens with the final version of macOS High Sierra installer as well as with some of the beta versions.

It is unclear why some users will get a 19MB version of “Install macOS High” when downloaded from the App Store, while others users will get the complete 5.2GB version of “Install macOS High” when downloading from the App Store. Interestingly, once a user ends up with the 19 MB version of the incomplete installer, that seems to be the only thing that will download for that user regardless of how many times the incomplete installer app is deleted and re downloaded.

Incomplete macOS High Sierra×105.jpg 300w,×270.jpg 768w,×316.jpg 900w” sizes=”(max-width: 610px) 100vw, 610px” class=”” style=”max-width: 100%; margin: 0.5em auto; display: block; height: auto;”>

The installer size and completeness inconsistency appears random, and has no relation to disk space, beta enrollment, software catalog, and other theories seem to be incorrect as well.

Do you know of another method to download the complete macOS High Sierra installer application rathe than the tiny incomplete installer that arrives for some users on the Mac App Store? Let us know in the comments!

Her er alt du skal vide om Apples nye billed- og videoformater

Her er alt du skal vide om Apples nye billed- og videoformater×139.jpg 247w,×415.jpg 737w,×553.jpg 982w,×642.jpg 1140w,×198.jpg 352w” class=”” style=”max-width: 100%; height: auto; margin: auto; display: block; clear: both;”>

Med de officielle lanceringer af iOS 11 og macOS High Sierra har Apple samtidig lanceret understøttelse af to helt nye filformater. Det er billedformatet HEIF og videoformatet HEVC. De er udviklet af Moving Picture Experts Group (MPEG) og er altså ikke Apples eget format.

Det er meget mere interessant end det umiddelbart lyder. De to formater har nemlig en række fordele sammenlignet med de formater vi normalt bruger til billeder og video. Først og fremmest kan de spare en masse plads på vores enheder.

Hvad er HEVC?

HEVC er en forkortelse for High Efficiency Video Coding. Det er et relativt nyt videokomprimeringsformat, der er tænkt som en efterfølger til det meget udbredte H.264-format. HEVC er derfor også kendt under navnet H.265. HEVC byder på dobbelt så god videokvalitet ved samme bitrate som H.264. HEVC understøtter desuden opløsninger op til 8192×4320 pixels herunder 8K UHD-video.

Helt lavpraktisk betyder det at dine videofiler fylder mindre end de ellers ville have gjort uden at kvaliteten forringes. Det betyder mindre behov for lagerpads og at du kan streame film i højere kvalitet uden behov for hurtigere netforbindelse. Du vil desuden typisk opleve færre komprimeringsfejl og en mere flydende afspilning.

HEVC-videoer bliver gemt med fil-endelsen .mov – som almindelige iPhone-videoer – men altså komprimeret med H.265. Du kan altså ikke se på filnavnet om en video er af HEVC-typen eller ej.

Hvad er HEIF?

HEIF er en forkortelse for High Efficiency Image Format. Det erstatter JPEG-formatet der ellers har brugt til billedlagring i næsten 25 år.

Teknisk set er HEIF faktisk sket ikke et billedformat men en container (lige som .mov er det). Det eller de billeder der er i HEIF-containeren er i praksis komprimeret via HEVC-formatet nævnet ovenfor. Derfor egner HEIF sig også specielt godt til Apples Live Photos og billeder fra duel-kamera iPhones.

HEIF har en del fordele sammenlignet med JPEG. HEIF har en mere effektiv algoritme til komprimering af billeddata. Det giver en bedre kvalitet, er hurtigere at arbejde med og ikke mindst giver det billeder der fylder under det halve af hvad de ville gøre med JPEG. Det mindsker behovet for plads på iPhonen samt der hvor man ellers lagrer sine billeder. En anden fordel er at HEIF byder på ikke-destruktiv redigering af visse ting som beskæring og rotation. Derudover understøtter HEIF et bredere farvespektrum.

HEIF-billeder gemmes med filendelsen .heif.

Hvilke enheder understøtter HEIF og HEVC?

For at kunne optage og encode billeder og video i HEIF- og HEVC-formaterne skal din iPhone eller iPad have en A10-processor eller nyere. Det dækker blandt andet iPhone 7 og de nye iPhones samt 10,5″ og 12,9″ iPad Pro.

Alle iOS-enheder med iOS 11 kan til gengæld godt afspille HEVC-videoer. Understøttelse af formatet er nemlig bygget ind i iOS 11. Der kan dog være nogle af de ældre enheder, der ikke understøtter høje opløsninger da de mangler hardwareacceleration.

På Mac understøttes HEVC af alle Macs der kan køre macOS High Sierra.

Kan man slå HEVC og HEIF til og fra?

Hvis din enhed understøtter de nye formater, vil de som standard blive brugt til nye videoer og billeder. Du kan manuelt skifte mellem HEVC/HEIF og de gamle formater i Indstillinger > Kamera > Formater.

Hvis du vælger “Pladsbesparende” vil din enhed benytte de nye formater. Hvis du vælger “Mest kompatible” vil din enhed benytte de gamle formater.

Kan man stadig dele billeder med andre?

Den største reelle ulempe ved de nye formater er at det i øjeblikket praktisk taget kun er Apple der understøtter formatet. Det må dog forventes at understøttelsen vil brede sig til de fleste andre nye enheder over de næste par år.

Det er dog ikke et problem, hvis du vil dele dine billeder med andre. Hvis du deler et billede med en anden iOS-enhed der ikke understøtter de to nye formater, vil iOS 11 nemlig selv konvertere HEIF og HEVC til de gamle formater der kan bruges over alt. Det samme sker hvis du deler til ikke-Apple-enheder eller apps der mangler understøttese af de nye formater. Du kommer altså ikke til at lide under at understøttelsen af HEIF og HEVC uden for Apples eget økosystem er begrænset. Blot vil dem du deler billedet med ikke få fordelene af det nye format.

Kan man konvertere eksisterende JPEG-billeder til HEIF – og bør man?

En detalje er at det kun er nye billeder og videoer der gemmes i HEIF og HEVC. Ens eksisterende billeder og videoer bliver altså ikke konverteret til de nye formater. Du kan dog konvertere dem manuelt, hvis du vil. Det er en lidt langhåret proces, så jeg vil nøjes med at henvise til hvor du kan finde en vejledning.

Om denne omkodning er tabsfri tvivler jeg på, så jeg vil ikke umiddelbart anbefale nogen at konvertere alle deres billeder til HEIF bare for at gøre det. Pointen her er i virkeligheden at HEIF er fremtidens format. Det er på de billede du tager fremadrettet – og ikke på dine eksisterende billeder – du vil få alle fordelene.


Det korte af det lange er altså at du med de to nye formater får bedre billedkvalitet på mindre plads. Der er ikke rigtigt nogen argumenter for ikke at benytte HEIF og HEVC, hvor det er muligt.

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How to reset the printing system on your Mac

Mike Matthews is a writer at He has used Apple products all the way back to the Apple II+. He appreciates no longer having to launch apps by loading them from a cassette tape recorder.

AirPrint printing with Mac

If you’re having problems printing from your Mac, this hidden tool will likely solve your problem.

We’ve all run into a printing problem at one time or another. Sometimes a document gets stuck in the queue and won’t print, or your Mac can’t find your printer on your network.

Usually one of these steps will get things running smoothly again:

  • Make sure the printer is properly connected either directly to the Mac or to the same network the Mac is using
  • Update the printer driver software
  • Delete and re-add the printer using the Printers & Scanners preference pane
  • Restart the wifi router and/or printer

But occasionally, these simple fixes are not enough. That’s when you have to bring out the heavy-duty tools.

There’s a hidden command in macOS that will reset the Mac’s printing system. Using it will clear out your list of devices that can print, scan, or fax from the Printers & Scanners preference pane and also do a bunch of behind-the-scenes housekeeping, the details of which you don’t really need to worry about.

Because it should be used as a last resort, you won’t find the command to reset the printing system in any of the Mac’s standard menus, which makes it harder to invoke accidentally. But it’s simple to do if you know how.

How to reset the printing system on your Mac

  1. Click on the Apple menu icon
  2. Click on System Preferences.

    Click on the Apple icon, then click System Preferences

  3. Click Printers & Scanners.
  4. Right or control-click in the list of devices on the left side of the window.
  5. Click on Reset printing system….

    Click on Printers and Scanners, then right or control-click on your printer

  6. Click Reset when prompted to confirm that you want to reset your entire printing system.
  7. Enter the password for your administrative account if prompted.
  8. Click OK.

    When the reset process is complete, the list of printers and scanners will be empty. You’ll then want to re-add your printer.

  9. Click the add button (it looks like a plus symbol).

  10. If the list of options appears, click on your printer to automatically add it to your system.

    Click on the Add button, then select your printer from the options that appear

  11. If a window pops up instead, select your printer from the list of available options. 
  12. Click on Add.

    Click on your printer, then click on Add

The Mac will create your printer and add it to your list.

And now you have a fresh new printer, ready to expend countless dollars of ink on your behalf.

Any questions?

Do you have any printing problems that none of these steps can solve? Let us know in the comments and we’ll try to help you out.

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How to reset the printing system on your Mac


Indstilling af dit Apple Watch support

Indstilling af dit Apple Watch

Læs mere om, hvordan du indstiller dit Apple Watch med din iPhone.

Før du begynder

Hvis du vil bruge Apple Watch Series 3 (GPS + Cellular), skal du have en iPhone 6 eller en nyere model med den nyeste version af iOS. (Hvis du vil bruge Apple Watch Series 3 (GPS) eller en tidligere model af Apple Watch, skal du have en iPhone 5s eller en nyere model med den nyeste version af iOS.)

Du skal også udføre disse trin:

  1. På iPhone: Gå til Indstillinger > Bluetooth, og kontroller, at Bluetooth er slået til.
  2. Kontroller, at din iPhone er sluttet til Wi-Fi eller et mobilnetværk.

Hvis du allerede har indstillet dit Apple Watch, men vil bruge det sammen med en anden iPhone, kan du overføre dit Apple Watch og dets indhold til din nye iPhone.  


Sådan tænder du dit Apple Watch

Du tænder dit Apple Watch ved at trykke på sideknappen og holde den inde, indtil Apple-logoet vises. Det kan tage et par minutter. 

Få hjælp, hvis dit Apple Watch ikke tænder, eller hvis du bliver bedt om at indtaste en adgangskode og har glemt den.

Sådan tager du dit Apple Watch på

Hold dit Apple Watch og din iPhone tæt på hinanden. Vent, til beskeden “Brug din iPhone for at indstille dette Apple Watch” vises på din iPhone, og tryk derefter på Fortsæt. Hvis du ikke ser beskeden, skal du åbne appen Apple Watch og derefter trykke på Start pardannelse.

Hold dit Apple Watch og din iPhone tæt på hinanden, indtil du har udført disse trin. 

Hold din iPhone over animationen

Anbring derefter urskiven midt i søgeren på din iPhone. Vent, til der vises en besked om, at dit Apple Watch er parret.

Hvis du ikke kan bruge kameraet, skal du trykke på Pardan Apple Watch manuelt og derefter følge de viste trin.

Indstil som nyt, eller gendan fra en sikkerhedskopi

Vælg derefter, hvilket håndled du vil have dit Apple Watch på. Læs Vilkår og betingelser, og tryk på Enig og derefter igen på Enig for at fortsætte.


Sådan logger du ind med dit Apple-id

Skriv adgangskoden til dit Apple-id, hvis du bliver bedt om det. Hvis du ikke bliver bedt om det, kan du logge ind senere fra appen Apple Watch: Tryk på Generelt > Apple-id, og log ind. Nogle funktioner, der kræver et mobiltelefonnummer, fungerer ikke på Apple Watch Series 3 (GPS + Cellular), medmindre du logger ind på iCloud. 

Hvis Find min iPhone ikke er indstillet på din iPhone, bliver du også bedt om at slå Aktiveringslåstil. Hvis du får vist skærmen Aktiveringslås, er dit Apple Watch allerede knyttet til et Apple-id. Du skal indtaste e-mailadressen og adgangskoden for det pågældende Apple-id for at fortsætte indstillingen. Hvis dit Apple Watch har haft en tidligere ejer, er du muligvis nødt til at kontakte den tidligere ejer for at få fjernet aktiveringslåsen


Sådan vælger du dine indstillinger

Du kan indstille Lokalitetstjenester, Registrering af rute og Siri. Hvis Siri ikke allerede er indstillet på din iPhone, slås funktionen til, når du vælger denne indstilling.

Dit Apple Watch viser derefter, hvilke indstillinger der deles med din iPhone. Hvis du har slået Find min iPhone, Lokalitetstjenester, Wi-Fi-opkald og Diagnosticering til på din iPhone, slås disse indstillinger automatisk til på dit Apple Watch.


Sådan opretter du en kode

Du kan springe over oprettelse af en kode, men du skal bruge en til funktioner som f.eks. Apple Pay.

Tryk på Opret adgangskode eller Tilføj en lang adgangskode på din iPhone, og skift til dit Apple Watch for at indtaste den nye kode. Tryk på Tilføj ikke adgangskode, hvis du vil springe det over.

Du bliver også bedt om at indstille Apple Pay ved at tilføje et kort.

Sådan vælger du dine indstillinger

Vi vil gennemgå indstillingen af funktioner som f.eks. SOS og Aktivitet. På Apple Watch Series 3 (GPS + Cellular) kan du også indstille mobilforbindelse.

Derefter kan du installere de apps, der er kompatible med Apple Watch.

Vent på, at dine enheder synkroniserer

Synkroniseringen kan tage et stykke tid, afhængigt af hvor mange data du har. Mens du venter på, at dit ur synkroniserer, kan du prøve de grundlæggende funktioner i Apple Watch.

Hold enhederne tæt på hinanden, indtil du hører en lyd og mærker feedback fra dit Apple Watch. Tryk derefter på Digital Crown. 

Sådan kommer du godt i gang med at bruge dit Apple Watch

Læs om bevægelser, der styrer dit Apple Watch, og om de apps, du kan bruge. Du kan også læse Brugerhåndbog til Apple Watchtilpasse urskiven eller tilføje eller fjerne apps

Sådan får du hjælp

Find dit problem herunder, og læs, hvad du skal foretage dig. Hvis du stadig har brug for hjælp, skal du kontakte Apple-support.

Hvis dit Apple Watch ikke tænder

Du skal måske oplade dit Apple Watch

Hvis du bliver bedt om en kode

Dit Apple Watch er stadig parret med en anden iPhone. Hvis du ikke kan huske koden, skal du slette dit Apple Watch og derefter indstille det igen

Hvis du ser skærmen Aktiveringslås

Dit Apple Watch er knyttet til et Apple-id. Du skal indtaste e-mailadressen og adgangskoden for det pågældende Apple-id for at fortsætte indstillingen. Hvis dit Apple Watch har haft en tidligere ejer, er du muligvis nødt til at kontakte den tidligere ejer for at få fjernet aktiveringslåsen

Hvis dit Apple Watch afbryder forbindelsen til din iPhone

Du kan forbinde dine enheder igen.


Back up your Apple Watch – Apple Support

Back up your Apple Watch

Apple Watch content backs up automatically to your companion iPhone, so you can restore your Apple Watch from a backup. When you back up your iPhone to iCloud or iTunes, your iPhone backup will also include your Apple Watch data.

Here’s what your Apple Watch backup includes:

  • App-specific data (for built-in apps) and settings (for built-in and third-party apps). For example, Maps, distance, and units and your settings for Mail, Calendar, Stocks and weather. 
  • App layout on the Home screen
  • Clock face settings, including your current watch face, customizations, and order 
  • Dock settings, including the order and available apps 
  • General system settings, such as your watch face, brightness, sound, and haptic settings
  • Health and Fitness data, such as history, achievements, Workout and Activity calibration data from your Apple Watch, and user-entered data (To back up Health and Fitness data, you need to use iCloud or an encrypted iTunes backup.)
  • Notification settings
  • Playlists synced to your Apple Watch
  • Synced photo album (To see which album syncs, open the Apple Watch app, tap the My Watch tab, then tap Photos > Synced Album.) 
  • Time Zone

Your backup won’t include:

  • Bluetooth pairings
  • Credit or debit cards used for Apple Pay on your Apple Watch
  • Passcode for your Apple Watch

When you unpair your Apple Watch from your iPhone, your iPhone automatically creates a backup of your Apple Watch. Unpairing will erase all data from your Apple Watch. If your Apple Watch is unpaired while out of range of your iPhone, the backup might not have the latest data. When you’re ready, you can pair your Apple Watch again and set it up from a backup.