Sådan får du liv i en iPad, der er slået fra eller hvor du har glemt koden





Sådan får du liv i en iPad, der er slået fra eller hvor du har glemt koden

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Her er en vejledning til, hvordan du kan få din iPad eller iPhone til at virke igen, hvis du har glemt koden til den, eller hvis du har indtastet en forkert kode så mange gange at enheden er blevet slået fra (disabled). Typisk vil du blive mødt en besked som “iPad er slået fra opret forbindelse til iTunes”.

Der er tre forskellige metoder til at få iPaden eller iPhonen til at virke igen. Hvilken en af de tre metoder du skal vælge afhænger af, om du tidligere har synkroniseret enheden med iTunes på din computer samt om “Find min iPhone” er slået til eller ej. Hvis ikke du ved eller kan huske det, så prøv de tre metoder en ad gangen i rækkefølge. Virker den første ikke, går du videre til nummer to. Virker den heller ikke, går du videre til nummer tre.

Hvis du tidligere har synkroniseret din iPad eller iPhone med iTunes på din computer uden at have slået “Find min iPhone” til er du bedst stillet. I så fald vil du uden videre kunne tage sikkerhedskopi og gendanne enheden så den er klar til brug igen uden at du skal bruge din kode.


Sådan gendanner du en iPad/iPhone som tidigere har været synkroniseret med iTunes


Udnyt at iTunes kender din enhed

Hvis du tidligere har synkoniseret din enhed via iTunes, kan du umiddelbart bruge iTunes til at gendanne den med. Alle dine indstillinger og indhold bliver bevaret med denne metode.

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Forbind til iTunes

Forbind din iPhone med kabel til din computer og åbn iTunes. Tryk på iPhone-knappen øverst til venstre i iTunes og vælg din enhed.

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Besked: Svar via iPhone

Hvis du ser denne besked i iTunes, eller på anden vis bliver bedt om at svare via din iPhone, er det fordi den aldrig har været synkroniseret med computeren. Du kan derfor ikke benytte denne metode, men må bruge en af metoderne nedenfor.

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Resume

Du er nu på enhedens oversigtside (resume). Bemærk at selvom din enhed er slået fra, så har du fuld adgang til at kunne administrere den i iTunes. Det udnytter vi.

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Tag sikkerhedskopi

Start med at tage en sikkerhedskopi. Det hurtigste og nemmeste er at gøre det til computeren frem for iCloud. Markér “Denne computer” og tryk derefter på “Sikkerhedskopier nu”. Vent på at den bliver helt færdig.

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Gendan enheden

Nu skal du gendanne enheden. Tryk på “Gendan iPhone” eller “Gendan iPad” i den øverste boks.

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Besked: Slå “Find min iPhone” fra

Hvis du ser denne besked er det fordi du har slået “Find min iPhone” til. Dette er en tyverisikring, som overtrumfer alt. Du kan af gode grunde ikke slå det fra på din enhed, når du er lukket ude. Du kan derfor ikke bruge denne metode, men må gå videre nedenfor.

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Sæt enheden op igen

Når din iPad eller iPhone er blevet gendannet, skal den sættes op igen. Brug den sikkerhedskopi du lige har taget i iTunes til formålet. Herefter kan du bruge den igen med alt indhold intakt.

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Hvis iTunes beder dig godkende computeren via din enhed, er det fordi du aldrig tidligere har synkroniseret den med computeren. iTunes kan derfor ikke med sikkerhed vide at du er den rette ejer ef enheden, og vil derfor ikke give dig adgang. I dette tilfælde må du gå videre med næste metode.

Bliver du bedt om at slå “Find min iPhone” fra når du skal til at gendanne, er du ogå nødt til at gå videre med næste metode. “Find min iPhone” er en tyverisikring, der forhinder simpel gendannelse i iTunes.

I begge tilfælde er det ikke noget problem. Du skal nok få liv i din iPad eller iPhone alligevel. Dog vil indholdet på iPhonen blive slettet umiddelbart, så du er afhængig af at du har en opdateret sikkerhedskopi for at kunne genskabe dit indhold.


Sådan gendanner du en iPad/iPhone hvor “Find min iPhone” er slået til


Udnyt at enheden er koblet til dit Apple ID

Hvis du har slået “Find min iPhone” til, kan din iPad eller iPhone slettes og gendannes uden videre selvom du har glemt din kode til enheden.

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Besøg iCloud.com

Åbn din en browser på din computer og gå ind på hjemmesiden icloud.com. Log ind med dit Apple ID og kodeord.

Har du glemt dit kodeord til Apple ID, kan du nulstille det her: iForgot

icloud-login

Find min iPhone

Tryk på “Find min iPhone”-ikonet i oversigten.

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Vælg din enhed

Tryk på “Alle enheder” øverst i midten og vælg den enhed, det drejer sig om, i listen.

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Slet enheden

I det lille vindue, der kommer frem, skal du trykke på “Slet iPhone” eller “Slet iPad”.

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Bekræft sletningen

I det lille vindue, der kommer frem, skal du bekræfte, at du vil slettet alt indhold og alle indstilinger på enheden.

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Sæt enheden op igen

Når din iPad eller iPhone er blevet slettet, skal den sættes op på ny. Du kan enten vælge at benytte den seneste sikkerhedskopi, eller at sætte den op som ny. Herefter kan du bruge den igen.

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Hvis din enhed ikke fremgår af listen på iCloud.com er det fordi du ikke har slået “Find min iPhone” til. I så fald er løsningen at sætte iOS-enheden i recovery-mode og gendanne firmwaren manuelt i iTunes via nedenstende metode.

Dette sletter alt indhold på telefonen – også koden. Har du en sikkerhedskopi kan du gendanne den, ellers vil al data på enheden være tabt.


Sådan gendanner du en iPad/iPhone manuelt


Sluk enheden

Fjern alle kalbler fra din enhed og sluk den: Hold Power-knappen nede og skub for at slukke. Vent til enheden er slukket helt.

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Forbind til iTunes

Tryk og hold hjem-knappen nede. Mens du holder knappen nede skal du forbinde den med kabel til din computer. Bliv ved med at holde hjem-knappen nede indtil du ser “Forbind med iTunes”-skærmbilledet. Nu kan du slippe knappen.

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Åbn iTunes

Åbn iTunes på computeren. Du vil se en besked om at det et problem med din iPhone. Tryk på “Annuller”

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Gendan enheden

Nu skal du gendanne enheden. Tryk på “Gendan iPhone” eller “Gendan iPad” i den grå boks. I det vindue, der kommer frem, skal du bekræfte, at du vil slettet alt indhold og alle indstilinger på enheden.

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Sæt enheden op igen

Når din iPad eller iPhone er blevet gendannet, skal den sættes op på ny. Du kan enten vælge at benytte den seneste sikkerhedskopi, eller at sætte den op som ny. Herefter kan du bruge den igen. Har du haft “Find min iPhone” slået til, kan enheden ikke bruges før du har indtastet dit Apple ID.

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Jeg håber at ovenstående guide har fået liv i din iPhone eller iPad og dermed sparet dig for en masse bekymringer og udgifter.

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Husk også at sprede budskabet. Link til onx.dk eller denne artikel fra dine sociale medier eller din hjemmeside og fortæl dine venner om siden.

Guiden er opdateret og ajourført i februar 2019.

How to clear the DNS cache on your iPhone, iPad & Mac



https://www.idownloadblog.com/2019/01/07/clear-dns-cache-mac-iphone-ipad-safari-chrome-firefox-opera-howto/

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Is a stale DNS cache making your web browsing experience excruciatingly slow? If so, you may have thought about speeding things up by switching to an alternate domain name server on your device. In that case, you’ll need to clear the DNS cache on your device. There are several ways to go about flushing DNS caches in iOS and macOS, and this step-by-step tutorial covers them all! Here’s how to delete the DNS cache on your iPhone, iPad and Mac.

If you cannot connect to some websites, a web page won’t load at all or your network slows down randomly for no apparent reason, chances are your device’s DNS cache has become corrupted due to technical glitches, administrative accidents or other reasons.

Aside from other reasons, the DNS cache may become polluted when unauthorized domain names or IP addresses are inserted into it via a network attack or malware/virus.

But worry not, resetting the DNS cache should help resolve those problems.

What is a DNS cache?

DNS, or “Domain Name System,” has been the staple of the Internet’s functionality since 1985.

In short, DNS is a decentralized naming system for devices connected to the Internet or a private network (VPN). The system assigns domain names to each of the devices while translating human-readable domain names like iDownloadBlog.com to the numerical IP addresses that identify services and devices with the underlying network protocols.

TUTORIAL: How to clear website data on Apple Watch

A DNS cache, also known as a DNS resolver cache, is a temporary database, a phone book of sorts, which helps speed up DNS lookups by storing records of all the recent network requests. Rather than having to memorize numerical IP addresses for your favorite websites, your device can tap into a cached table of recent DNS lookups to know how to load a web resource.

In other words, a DNS cache is just a memory of recent DNS lookups that your computer can quickly refer to when it’s trying to figure out how to load a website. A DNS cache is maintained by the operating system but some browsers may keep their own DNS cache.

TUTORIAL: How to clear browsing cache in Safari, Firefox & Chrome

All caches can become corrupt over time, and that’s especially true with DNS ones. A corrupt DNS cache may lead to intermittent problems with loading websites. Ergo, clearing the DNS cache so it doesn’t hold invalid items is usually the best way to solve any such woes.

It is very important to stress that clearing the DNS cache won’t remove your browsing history, website data, saved passwords or any other temporary Internet files that get saved to your device to speed up web page load times.

When and why you should clear DNS caches

Here are a few common scenarios in which clear the DNS cache may help.

  • Prevent DNS hijacking: This practice subverts the resolution of DNS queries, which can be achieved via malware or by modifying the behavior of a trusted DNS server to the point it no longer complies with Internet standards. Flushing your DNS cache minimizes risk of DNS hijacking, which is a significant problem in China.
  • Resolve page-loading problems: Starting fresh is the best way of addressing situations when some websites won’t load or web pages load slowly.
  • Server entires have changed: If an entry on the web server is changed or a new entry is added, you might need to flush the DNS cache immediately to prevent interruptions. Keep in mind that if you’re waiting for server-side DNS changes to propagate, adjusting your device’s DNS settings may not have a desired effect before the changes have carried over between servers around the world.
  • Using Google DNS or Open DNS servers: Before setting your device to use Google DNS or Open DNS servers as its DNS, which speeds up web browsing when on Wi-Fi, you’re advised to flush out the DHCP assignments by clearing out DNS caches.
  • Enforce a network settings change: If you’ve made changes to your device’s network settings, like adding a custom DNS as part of your VPN service, clearing out the DNS cache will make these changes take effect immediately without any further action.
  • Protect from malware: A computer virus or malware may change your DNS settings in the background, or fool you into changing them manually, in order to redirect you to a page full of ads or a phishing page that mimics a legitimate website. Clearing out the DNS cache deletes all the entries, including invalid or rogue records.

Even if you’re not having any problems loading web pages whatsoever, clearing out a stale DNS cache won’t just make your web browsing experience hassle-free but will also clean up the valuable storage space in your device.

TUTORIAL: How to erase your browsing history in Safari

Your router has a DNS cache, too, meaning that any DNS troubleshooting steps should also include flushing the DNS cache on both the computer and the router.

Follow along with us as we explain how to clear the DNS cache on your iPhone, iPad and Mac.

How to clear DNS caches

You can flush the DNS cache in ways more than one.

How to clear DNS caches on iPhone and iPad

On iOS, you have three different ways of clearing the DNS cache. Firstly, you can toggle Airplane Mode on and then back off, which has the side-effect of flushing the DNS cache. Secondly, you can simply reboot your device in order to achieve the same effect like the Airplane Mode method. And thirdly, dumping your network settings will also do the trick.

Method #1: Airplane Mode

Toggling Airplane Mode is the quickest way to flush your DNS cache because doing so instantly turns off the wireless features on your device and shuts down cellular radios so that you comply with airline regulations. If you need to clear DNS caches multiple times per day, this is the method you’ll want to use (it works with cellular iPads, too).

1) Open Control Center by swiping down from the upper-right corner of the screen on iPhone X or later or iPad with iOS 12 or later. On older devices or iOS versions, swipe up from the bottom edge to pull up the Control Center overlay.

2) Tap the Airplane Mode icon in the top-left corner of the Network Settings card.

When Airplane Mode is toggled on, the icon turns orange to denote that all cellular services are currently shut down, which will also prompt iOS to flush the system’s DNS cache.

3) After about 15 seconds, tap the Airplane Mode icon again to re-enable wireless services.

Clear DNS cache iPhonemedia.idownloadblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/iOS_12_Control_Center_AirPlane_Mode-255×182.jpg 255w” sizes=”(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px” style=”box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; vertical-align: middle; display: block; margin: 20px auto; max-width: 100%;” apple-inline=”yes” id=”A389D80B-AF76-4D98-B4E8-E590EDE4C193″ src=”https://o1sen.dk/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/iOS_12_Control_Center_AirPlane_Mode.jpeg”>

You can also go to Settings → Airplane Mode and tap the slider to turn it on.

Method #2: Rebooting

Restarting your device makes it fast and simple to flush the DNS cache.

1) Do the following:

  • On iPhone X and 2018 iPad Pro and newer: Press and hold the Side button and either volume button until the slider appears.
  • On older devices, like iPhone 8 and earlier: Hold down the Power button for a few seconds.

The Power button is also known as the Top button on iPod touch and iPad.

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iOS restart buttons have been rechristened and repositioned over the years

2) Swipe the slider labeled Slide to Power Off.

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3) After the device shuts down and turns off, wait a few seconds then press and hold the Side/Top/Power button again until you see the Apple logo. As a security precaution, when the device reboots you’ll need to enter your passcode to re-enable Touch ID or Face ID.

media.idownloadblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/iOS-12-Settings-GEneral-Shut-Down-001-255×124.png 255w” sizes=”(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px” style=”box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; vertical-align: middle; display: block; margin: 20px auto; max-width: 100%;” apple-inline=”yes” id=”A2E791DF-13EF-4380-B693-2015E02189B4″ src=”https://o1sen.dk/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/iOS-12-Settings-GEneral-Shut-Down-001.png”>

If your device is on iOS 11+, you can also turn it off in Settings → General → Shut Down.

Because rebooting takes more time than toggling the Airplane Mode on and then back off, this isn’t the best approach if you need to flush your DNS cache multiple times per day.

NOTE: Concerned about DNS hijacking? If so, this isn’t the safest method of flushing the DNS cache because the hijacking may occur immediately after the device reboots, before you even have the chance to connect to a VPN.

Method #3: Network settings dump

Clearing the network settings on your device will also flush the system’s DNS cache.

1) Open Settings on your device.

2) Choose General from the list.

3) Tap Reset.

4) Choose Reset Network Settings.

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5) Type in your passcode, if asked, then confirm that you wish to clear out all network settings and return them to factory defaults.

This may not be the best method because resetting your network settings won’t just restart the device (which clears the caches anyway) but also clear passwords for all the Wi-Fi networks you’ve joined. Worse, cellular data settings from your wireless provider will be cleared out, too, and all your other network settings will be lost so you’ll need to set them up again.

How to clear DNS caches on your Mac

On macOS, the flushing of DNS caches is performed through Terminal commands that have changed over the years, but don’t you worry a thing as iDownloadBlog has you covered.

1) First, open Terminal from your /Application/Utilities folder or via Spotlight.

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2) Type the command corresponding to your Mac operating system version, then press Enter.

  • macOS Sierra, High Sierra & Mojave (10.12, 10.13 and 10.14)

sudo killall -HUP mDNSResponder; sleep 2

  • OS X Yosemite 10.10.4+ and El Capitan (10.11)

sudo dscacheutil -flushcache; sudo killall -HUP mDNSResponder

  • OS X Yosemite (10.10.0-10.10.3)

sudo discoveryutil mdnsflushcache; sudo discoveryutil udnsflushcaches

  • OS X Mavericks (10.9)

dscacheutil -flushcache; sudo killall -HUP mDNSResponder

  • OS X Lion and Mountain Lion (10.7 and 10.8)

sudo killall -HUP mDNSResponder

  • OS X Leopard and Snow Leopard (10.5 and 10.6)

sudo dscacheutil -flushcache

If for some reason the Terminal command for macOS Sierra and newer won’t work properly, feel free to use the following syntax instead:

sudo killall -HUP mDNSResponder; sudo killall mDNSResponderHelper; sudo dscacheutil -flushcache

You will need to administrative privileges to execute these commands.

Bonus: Mac-cleaning software

If all of the above sounds too complicated, especially the Terminal method, consider a third-party solution such as MacPaw’s CleanMyMac, which is a much simpler alternative to clearing your DNS caches that works on all versions of the Mac operating system.

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Start by downloading CleanMyMac from the MacPaw website for free.

After you install the app, launch it and click on Maintenance in the lefthand sidebar menu. Now select the option Flush DNS Cache and click Run to have CleanMyMac do its magic.

Clearing DNS caches in Safari, Chrome, Opera & Firefox

In addition to the system’s own DNS cache, most browsers (barring Internet Explorer) also keeps a cached copy of the DNS records. This internal browser DNS cache may get corrupt over time and slow down lookups. Your browser automatically clears its cache when it’s restarted, but you can also do it manually without having to reopen the app.

Safari

1) Launch Safari on your Mac.

2) Enable Safari’s hidden Develop menu by choosing Preferences from the Safari menu.

Safari Preferences Menu Barmedia.idownloadblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Safari-Preferences-Menu-Bar-397×400.png 397w, media.idownloadblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Safari-Preferences-Menu-Bar-497×500.png 497w” sizes=”(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px” style=”box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; vertical-align: middle; display: block; margin: 20px auto; max-width: 100%;” apple-inline=”yes” id=”5068589F-8CD7-451D-A318-EDC2EA9B209B” width=”240″ height=”242″ src=”https://o1sen.dk/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Safari-Preferences-Menu-Bar.png”>

3) Click the Advanced tab.

4) Tick the box next to “Show Develop menu in menu bar”.

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Now the hidden Develop menu will appear in Safari’s menu bar.

5) Click the Develop menu, then choose the option Empty Caches.

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After clearing your browsing cache, be sure to quit and re-launch Safari for the best results.

Chrome

1) Launch Chrome on your Mac

2) Type chrome://net-internals/#dns in the address bar, then press Enter.

3) You’ll be taken to the DNS section of Chrome’s internal settings page. Click DNS in the left-hand column, then click the button labeled Clear Host Cache to flush the DNS cache.

4) Open a new tab, then type in the address chrome://net-internals/#sockets and press Enter.

5) You’ll be take to the section of Chrome’s internal settings page for cached socket pools. Click Sockets in the lefthand column, then click the button labeled Flush Socket Pools.

Now restart Chrome for the changes to take effect.

Opera

1) Launch Opera on your Mac

2) Type opera://net-internals/#dns in the address bar, then press Enter.

3) You’ll be taken to the DNS section of Opera’s internal settings page. Click the button labeled Clear Host Cache to flush the DNS cache.

4) Open a new tab, then type in the address opera://net-internals/#sockets and press Enter.

5) You’ll be take to the section of Opera’s internal settings page for cached socket pools. Now click the button labeled Flush Socket Pools.

Now restart Opera for the best results.

Firefox

1) Launch Firefox on your MAc.

2) In the address bar, type about:config and press Enter.

3) Click “I accept the risk!” on a warning page.

4) Use the search field at the top to search for “network.dnsCacheExpiration”.

5) Your search should return two variables, named “network.dnsCacheExpiration“ and “network.dnsCacheExpirationGracePeriod”. Double-click on each variable’s value part so you can edit it, then change the value from the default 60 to 0, which will prompt Firefox to immediately clear out its DNS cache.

6) After doing this, now set both variables back to 60.

Restart Firefox for the best resets.

Need help? Ask iDB!

Do you like this how-to?

If so, do pass it along to your support folks and leave a comment below.

Got stuck? Not sure how to do certain things on your Apple device? Let us know via help@iDownloadBlog.com and a future tutorial might provide a solution.

Submit your own how-to suggestions via tips@iDownloadBlog.com.

What are Zigbee and Z-Wave? Everything you need to know!


What are Zigbee and Z-Wave? Everything you need to know!

Your connected home can be built a lot of different ways, but likely starts right here.

Maybe the most fun part of new tech and internets of things and stuff is all the crazy names attached to it. And there are a lot of them.

Two of the most popular, for now anyway, are Zigbee and Z-Wave. They are fun to say and have similar sounding names and are mostly used for the same things. But there are some differences. We’ve seen more than a few questions about them and since we like to geek out over this sort of thing, we can talk about what they are and what they are used for. And bees.

What is Z-Wave?

SmartThings can talk to both Zigbee and Z-Wave at the same time.

Z-Wave (or ZWave or Z Wave) is a way for two or more things to communicate wirelessly. It’s a low-energy mesh network where devices can communicate directly with each other by sending very reliable and very small low-latency bursts of data, but it still requires a hub or gateway so a device can control all the other devices. It’s almost exclusively used for residential applications — you use it around your home or small office — while other standards (like Zigbee, which we’ll get to in a minute) are better suited for industrial and wide-scale commercial applications.

Z-Wave is represented by names we already know, and there are 1,700 different products that are Z-Wave-certified.

Z-Wave is very well suited for home automation. Devices like door locks, thermostats, and light switches don’t send large packages of data and often only send or receive data while they are actually in use. Your garage may have a security system in place, but the door opener only needs to know when it’s time to open or close the door. Data speeds are capped at 100kbps and the maximum recommended distance between mesh nodes is 40 meters, though older Z-Wave gear has a maximum throughput of 9.6 kbps and a 30-meter range. A data packet can hop between four nodes before it’s discarded but Z-Wave’s network mapping is pretty good so the shortest distance with the fewest hops will usually be used.

Z-Wave transmits on the unlicensed Part 15 ISM band (Texas Instruments .pdf file link) at 908.42MHz in North America and 868.42MHz in Europe. Other countries have specific frequencies that Z-Wave is regulated to use and all this is important because Z-Wave can use the same radio frequency bands as consumer cordless telephones. This isn’t an ideal situation, but it does keep Z-Wave completely clear of the crowded 2.4GHz band that Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and a host of less popular standards use.

Z-Wave was introduced in 2001, and as of 2012 is an option in the ITU’s (International Telecommunications Union) G.9959 standard for wireless devices under 1GHz.

What is Zigbee?

The new Echo Plus is also a Zigbee controller!

Zigbee is also a low-power wireless mesh network standard, designed specifically so devices will have a long battery life. Zigbee can be used for residential applications and it works well, but it’s also well suited for industrial and large-scale commercial use. The network layer supports star (a central hub and devices connected to it) and tree (groups of star networks connected to one linear backbone) networks as well as a generic mesh node-to-node layout. Every Zigbee network needs at least one controller device but can support more than one.

Zigbee is designed to work well in places where wireless is congested, but it also works great in our homes.

Support for numerous types of network topology and support for multiple coordinating devices are part of what makes Zigbee a good choice for more complicated applications. Zigbee support is included in microcontrollers with their own flash storage so automation routines can be built and triggered as needed by software. Other types of Zigbee devices include routers which can act as a network extender and ZEDs — Zigbee End Devices which can only receive data from a coordinator device and can’t relay data back.

Zigbee is one of the global standards covered by the IEEE 802.15 group. It operates in the unlicensed portion of the 2.4 GHz bands but can also operate in the unlicensed 902 to 928 MHz (Australia, North America, and South America) and the 868 to 868.6 MHz (Europe) ISM bands. Transfer rates cap at 250 kbps in the 2.4 GHz band, 40 kbps in the 915 MHz band, and 20 kbps in the 868 MHz band. Data rates will be slower than the maximum, partly because Zigbee has more overhead. It was designed to operate in “hostile” (think crowded, congested and always changing) 2.4 GHz band and has built-in collision avoidance and retry abilities. Typical range is between 10 and 20 meters depending on any obstruction, but in outdoor long-range applications, a range of 1,500 meters (line of sight) is possible as the output power of a Zigbee radio can reach 20 dBm at 100 mW (a lot stronger than you think).

Zigbee was named after the dance worker honeybees perform when they return to the hive. Bee’s zig-zag. Zig. Bee. And yes, I’m serious. ?

So which is better?

That’s going to depend on who you ask and what they are doing that uses either standard.

Z-Wave is more mature and easier to develop applications for. Almost every device will use the same Intel MCS-51 microcontroller and familiar names like Carrier, Honeywell, Black & Decker and Samsung are part of the Z-Wave Alliance and help keep Z-Wave robust yet simple in design and operation.

When it comes to consumer products, one is not better than the other.

Zigbee is great for devices that are hard to reach. A Zigbee certified device must have a battery life of over 2 years to pass testing. the protocol is just really friendly when it comes to power requirements. But Zigbee networks can be far more complicated, and even if you’re producing a simple switch you’ll need to be able to support any network configuration. Zigbee also competes for bandwidth with high-speed protocols like Bluetooth and IrDA (Infrared Data Association) that are built to use every bit of bandwidth possible for applications like voice or video transmission. This is why multiple network topographies and great collision and retry features are a big part of the standard.

So, yeah. It really depends on what you’re trying to do! KwickSet’s deadbolt locks are a perfect use case for Z-Wave. A small hub in your house lets you control up to 230 devices like a door lock with your phone, a controller, over the internet, or through an Amazon Echo. Zigbee is a better fit for something that needs to be able to stay connected under any conditions. Something like this SHURE wireless microphone developed in 2011 that was able to transfer in real time and in a very congested area. Though these microphones are now end-of-life with the dawn of 600 MHz cellular connections.

For the things we as consumers love to use, both are great. The characteristics of Z-Wave make it more robust in a house filled with walls and multiple floors, but Zigbee devices are also trouble-free in the home most of the time. And there are cool gadgets that use either protocol or even both. You can do amazing things in your home with SmartThings or Wink hub and control it all with your phone or your watch or something like an Amazon Echo.

Amazon Echo: Everything you need to know

HomeKit and HomePod



Here’s where things get interesting.

HomeKit isn’t nearly as complicated or as flexible as a Zigbee Controller or a SmartThings hub or even an Amazon Echo can be. This is by design. Rarely do we see Apple rush to be part of the first wave in anything, and by studying emerging tech they can simplify much of it to kill the pain points. As a result, HomeKit doesn’t have the giant ecosystem either Z-Wave or Zigbee does. The upside is the “things” that are HomeKit enabled are easy to setup and use. Siri also isn’t quite ready to be the next Alexa or “Hey Google!” when it comes to home automation. But with the arrival of HomePod, things might change.

HomePod seems to be a really nice smart speaker with some extra features to control HomeKit products. Sounds a lot like an Apple TV, right? Not really.

People will want the HomePod to do the same things an Amazon Echo can, and companies will do their best to sell products that try and make it happen.

The Apple TV is an entertainment product first and a HomeKit hub second. We know the Apple TV and we’re buying it because of the way we can get the content we want on the best screen in our house. When people buy a HomePod in 2017 they have two existing products from Amazon and Google to compare it to and will expect to see other really cool products that work with it. This is a golden opportunity for companies who already make HomeKit badged products to expand their lineup and for new companies to buy into the Homekit ecosystem.

The potential is there and the market will likely react. Let’s be honest, people who buy Apple’s products tend to have a bit of disposable income, and there is nothing companies making smart products love more than customers with disposable income. I doubt we’ll ever see full-on support for Zigbee or Z-Wave built into HomeKit, but the technology has been shown off once or twice even though no retail products have emerged.

What I think we will see are more products that have HomeKit support (things we had no idea we needed or wanted, even!) and further development from companies like IFTTT to bridge everything together so you can have Siri do anything and everything. This keeps HomeKit’s focus on ease-of-use and data security intact while letting people who want it all have it all.

How to Put iPhone 7 Into DFU Mode



http://osxdaily.com/2017/01/03/how-dfu-mode-iphone-7/

How to Put iPhone 7 Into DFU Mode

Jan 3, 2017 – 2 Comments

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Need to place an iPhone 7 or iPhone 7 Plus into DFU mode? Now that the iPhone no longer includes a clickable Home button, you might be wondering how to place the iPhone 7 models into DFU mode, and that’s exactly what we’ll show you how to do.


For some quick background, DFU Mode is an advanced recovery and restore mode you can place an iPhone into, which is sometimes necessary for troubleshooting, restoring, or for using IPSW files to update the device. If you’re interested, you can learn more about what DFU mode is here. Typically using DFU mode is only necessary for troubleshooting if a device is not responding or restoring properly when in Recovery Mode for whatever reason, and it is rarely necessary for the average user to access.

To use DFU mode with iPhone 7 and iPhone 7 Plus, you must have a USB iPhone charging cable, a computer – it can be a Mac or Windows PC – and a new updated version of iTunes to restore or interact with the iPhone.

How to Use DFU Mode on iPhone 7 and iPhone 7 Plus

This applies to iPhone 7, iPhone 7 Plus, and future model iPhones without a clickable Home button. This approach will not work on older iPhone models, if necessary you can learn how to enter DFU mode on iPhone models with a clickable Home button here, which uses a completely different method.

  1. Launch iTunes on the computer if you have not done so already
  2. Connect the iPhone 7 or iPhone 7 Plus to the computer with iTunes
  3. Turn off the iPhone 7 by holding down the Power button and then swiping to power off, wait until the iPhone is completely turned off with a black screen
  4. Now press and hold the Power button on the right-side of the iPhone for about 3 seconds
  5. While still holding the Power button, now also press and hold the Volume Down button on the left side of the iPhone 7
  6. Continue to hold both the Power button and Volume Down button for about 10 seconds
  7. Release the power button but continue to hold the Volume Down button for about 5 seconds
  8. The iPhone 7 screen should stay black, while iTunes should pop-up an alert message saying an iPhone has been detected
  9. The device can now be restored while in DFU mode

Once the iPhone 7 has properly entered into DFU mode you can perform a low level restore or update as needed to the device.

4 Ways to Know iPhone Did NOT Enter DFU Mode Properly

1) If the iPhone screen shows an Apple logo, you did the process wrong and the iPhone rebooted instead. Start over.

2) If the iPhone screen shows an iTunes logo, you did the process wrong and instead entered into Recovery Mode, which is different from DFU mode. Start over.

3) If iTunes does not show a message stating that an iPhone was detected and can be restored, the device did not properly enter DFU mode. Start over.

4) If the iPhone screen is not black, the iPhone 7 is not in DFU mode. The iPhone display is always black and off when in DFU mode.

If you have any difficulties entering DFU mode, or you wind up in Recovery Mode instead of DFU mode, you can simply restart the iPhone 7 or iPhone 7 Plus to begin the process again. 

How to Exit DFU Mode on iPhone 7

Keep in mind that after an iPhone has been successfully restored, it will exit DFU mode on it’s own.

If you entered DFU mode on iPhone 7 / 7 Plus and now need to exit DFU mode, simply restart the iPhone 7 by holding down the Power button and Volume Down button concurrently until you see the Apple logo. The iPhone will restart as usual and boot up as it normally would.

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Posted by: Paul Horowitz in iPhoneTips & TricksTroubleshooting

2 Comments

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  1. LexS says:

    again a very good article, Paul !
    Thanks, was much needed.
    Have a wonderful 2017.

  2. Bill Martin says:

    Okay I am slow! A complete article about an acronym I have never seen and don’t know what you are talking about. Please clarify!

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